A Local’s Guide to the 12th Arrondissement of Paris

Last Updated on 11th May 2024 by Sophie Nadeau

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The 12th arrondissement is best-known for being home to Bercy Village, Opera Bastille, and was even the site of the start of the French Revolution. Buzzing and bustling with bars, cafés, and restaurants, it’s slightly less touristic than some areas of the city but is a pocket of Paris well worth visiting nonetheless. Here’s your guide to the best things to do in the 12th arrondissement.

Where is the 12th arrondissement?

The 12th arrondissement is located in the northeastern part of Paris and borders the inner suburbs of Charenton-le-Pont and Saint-Mandé in Val-de-Marne. It is one of the 20 arrondissements of Paris and borders the River Seine, 3rd, 4th, 11th, and 20th arrondissements.

Best things to do in the 12th arrondissement

The 12th arrondissement is largely residential and was once a gritty part of the city that tourists didn’t really venture to. Today, the area is one of the more sought after neighbourhoods by locals for its quiet and calm ambiance and abundance of green spaces. The most important monument housed here is the Opera de Bastille.

Promenade Plantée

Paris is a city home to some of the most beautiful green spaces in Europe, and one that’s no exception to this is the unusual Promenade Plantée, a raised park walkway that stretches three miles long.

Also known as La Coulée Verte, it was originally a viaduct, that in 1988 was converted into a fascinating green space. The first of its kind, this magical walk way is ten meters above street level, offering interesting views of the city while being immersed in the the freshness of green that surrounds.

Today visitors can stroll, cycle or skate along this oasis of green (for free!) all the way from the Bastille to the Bois de Vincennes.

Bois de Vincennes

One of the two largest parks in Paris (the other being Bois de Boulogne), the Bois de Vincennes is complete with a fortified château and moat, and it is often referred to as a ‘green lung’ of the city.

Highlights of this nature-filled haven include an English landscape garden and four lakes, one of which you can rent boats on in the summer months. Other things to do while in the Bois de Vincennes include visiting the medieval Chateau de Vincennes and taking a peek inside one of the last remaining Sainte Chapelle churches in France.

Bois de Vincennes is the perfect spot to find yourself immersed in nature without leaving the capital city!

Place de la Bastille

Place de la Bastille is where the 4th, 11th, and 12th Arrondissements meet. This square is of great importance as it was once where the Bastille prison stood until it was invaded on July 15th 1789 and destroyed by the revolutionaries, this event marked the very start of the French Revolution.

Today the monument stands as a symbol of the Revolution and liberation, so it’s a must-see when visiting Paris!

Not just a place, the 14th of July has become a marked day of importance in the French calendar. Known as Bastille day, a public holiday to commemorates the storming of the Bastille and the freedom that followed during the period of Revolution, this is arguably the biggest day of the year for French celebrations.

Opera Bastille

Constructed to commemorate the 200th anniversary of the French Revolution, the Opera Bastille is the other Opera house in Paris (the more famous one being Palais Garnier in the 8th arrondissement).

Located on the Place de la Bastille, the idea to build a “popular and modern” opera house came only years after the construction of the Palais Garnier, apparently to re-balance the geographic spread of the cities arts theatres which were primarily located in the west of Paris.

Today visitors can take a guided tour around the modern opera house and find themselves immersed into the backstage world of theatre! (The guided tour is only available in French)

Bercy Village

A quirky place to visit is that of Bercy Village, a wine production complex turned shopping district and eatery, it’s one of the most interesting pockets of the 12th Arrondissement!

The village of Bercy is best-known as an urban renewal pedestrian only shopping village, home to the fairground museum, a sprawling park, and even a cinema! During the festive season, Bercy also happens to be one of the top locations to enjoy Christmas lights in Paris.

Abundant with things to do, read our guide on how to visit Bercy Village and the top things to do and see while there.

Fairground Museum

Situated within the Pavilions de Bercy lies the magical and unique collection of objects from the performing arts of the 19th and 20th centuries of the Musée des Arts Forains.

Interactive and unforgettable, this is an unusual place to discover and experience the curiosities of entertainment, with the opportunity to play fairground games too! Recommended to book a ticket online in advance, find out more about ticket information here.

Rue Cremieux

Situated close to the Place de la Bastille lies one of the cutest streets in all of Paris, Rue Cremieux.

A pastel candy coloured street that stretches 144 meters long and sits on a cosy cobbled lane, it truly looks like something straight from a movie set! Perhaps no longer a hidden secret of Paris, this little lane has experienced a complete surge of popularity since its ‘discovery’ on Instagram.

People have made comparisons of Rue Cremieux to that of Portobello Road in London. And although there’s not loads to do on this street, while in the area it’s definitely worth a stroll along this picture perfect pocket of the 12th arrondissement.

Gare de Lyon

One of the seven mainline railway stations of Paris, the Gare de Lyon was built in 1855 and is famed for its magnificent architectural features including its impressive 67 meter high clock-tower, which is a famous landmark of the city.

Named after the city of Lyon (a popular stop for many long-distance trains departing here) the station is of great importance and is served by high-speed TGV trains connecting to Southern and Eastern France, Switzerland, Germany, Italy and Spain. In fact, the station welcomes around 110 million visitors a year!

Even if you aren’t taking a train from here, the architecture alone makes it a worthwhile visit, and this is particularly true of the restaurant housed within. The iconic Le Train Bleu is the embodiment of opulence, this grand dining room is covered in gold leaf, rich royal blue and elegant chandeliers, truly a room to marvel at!

Located in the heart of the 12th arrondissement, Le Gare de Lyon is a central hub and has so much to visit in close proximity, including Place de la Bastille, Promenade Plantée, and Bercy Village.

Dine at Le Train Bleu

Illustrious, ornate, and something of an institution in the Parisian dining landscape, Le Train Bleu is nestled within Paris’ Gare de Lyon and has been welcoming diners since the start of the 20th-century. Today, the grandiose restaurant is one of the best places to dine in the city if you’re looking for a historic experience with great food and plenty of charm. 

Dating back to 1901, the dining area of the restaurant is lavishly decorated in neo-baroque and Belle Époque frescoes, panelling, and high ceilings. Read here for an insiders guide of what it’s really like to dine at Le Train Bleu.

Marché d’Aligre

One of the more interesting open markets in Paris is that of the Marché de’Aligre, which takes place on the Rue d’Aligre and happens daily from 9am, opening a little later on Sundays (closed on a Monday).

Built in 1779, making it one of the oldest markets of the city, the Aligre market is a vibrant burst of colour and flavour, selling all kinds of treasures from delicious local produce to vintage clothing and other trinkets.

It’s an absolute must visit for those who love authentic outdoor markets. Also a foodies haven, you could easily pick up local delights and make a hamper to take on a stroll along the Promenade Plantée or have a picnic in Bois de Vincennes!

Jardin du Bassin de l’Arsenal

Yet another public park of Paris, this surprising spot is located on the east bank of the Canal Saint-Martin and was created in 1983 and is just a stones throw away from the Gare de Lyon.

Home to the only marina of the city, this area has an unusual seaside feel as you stroll along and see all the boats that have cast anchor along the embankment of the Seine. The park itself occupies a space of 544 meters long, and within visitors can admire sculptures and walk beneath the shelter of maple and willow trees, and a pergola covered with roses and other plants. 

Jardin de Reuilly

Yet another green space where the locals hang out is Jardin de Reuilly. Created between 1992 and 1998, the gardens are best known for their sprawling lawns which you can sit on to relax or have a picnic (this is a rarity in Paris where sitting on the lawn is often prohibited). In one corner of the park, there’s even a water fountain dispensing sparkling water!

Parc de Bercy

Though Paris is often accused of not having enough green space, this is certainly not the case in the 12th arrondissement. Yet another park you might not have ever heard of is Parc de Bercy.

This green space can be found right next to Village de Bercy and is home to vegetable allotments, quaint gardens, and dates back to 1994 when the park was established on the grounds of a former wine depot.

Cimetière de Picpus

One of the more hidden gems of the 12th arrondissement that many people don’t know about is the Picpus Cemetery. This is actually the final resting place of Gilbert du Motier, Marquis de Lafayette, a key figure in the French Revolution and celebrated champion of France’s freedom.

Today it stands as the largest private cemetery in all of Paris, the biggest public one is that of the famous, Père Lachaise Cemetery.

The cemetery should open at 2pm and if not you can ring the bell and the caretaker will open the doors (there’s an entry fee of €2).

See the cherry blossoms on Allée Vivaldi

If there’s one cherry blossom destination in Paris that I definitely don’t see talked about enough, it’s Allée Vivaldi. Around the beginning to the middle of April, this street is lined with row upon row of cherry blossom! Just be warned that it can get pretty busy so do be sure to go early morning mid-week if possible!

Musée de la Cinémathèque

A museum celebrating the French love of film, this is a must-see landmark for lovers of filmmaking and all things cinema!

The unique building itself is worth visiting alone, an iconic curved design that makes it appear as if its out of a movie. Inside visitors can discover the birth of cinema and its archives all in one spot. The museum also shows screenings of a variety of worldwide films.

Located nearby to Bercy Village, the museum is open Monday through to Saturday from 12pm-7pm and 10am-8pm on Sundays.

Where to stay in the 12th arrondissement

Thanks to its location a bit further away from many of the classic tourist attractions, the 12th arrondissement can be a more affordable option for those trying to save money in Paris. Here’s where to stay in the 12th arrondissement (based on location and web-reviews):

The People – Paris Bercy: This laid-back hostel features both dorm rooms and private rooms for an extra fee. Amenities onsite include a communal kitchen, breakfast a funky lounge/dining area, and a bar with a patio. Check prices and availability here.

Courtyard by Marriott Paris Gare de Lyon: This four-star tourist hotel features amenities such as baggage storage, a restaurant onsite, and housekeeping. Check prices and availability here.

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