An Insider’s Guide to the Best Things to do in the 19th Arrondissement of Paris

Last Updated on 26th July 2023 by Sophie Nadeau

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The 19th arrondissement of Paris is one of those places which few tourists venture into as it’s far from the centre and doesn’t really have any ‘must-see’ attractions. Instead, this is where locals come to hang out in the Parc de Buttes Chaumont, or enjoy classical music concerts in the Paris Philharmonic. Here’s a quick guide to the best things to do in the 19th arrondissement.

Where is the 19th arrondissement?

For those who are familiar with Paris, the fact that there are 20 districts in the city will probably need no introduction. The 19th is located in the northeast portion of the city and is bordered by the 10th, 18th, and 20th arrondissements.

Particular highlights of this corner of the French capital include two of Paris’ largest parks (making the 19th one of the greenest places in Paris), as well as the waterway of Canal de l’Ourcq, and plenty of bars and restaurants that are mainly frequented by locals.

The 19th was actually a peripheral village to Paris up until 1860 when it was annexed to the city itself. This is the case with many outer parts of what make up the French capital today, including Belleville, Montmartre, and Pantin.

Best things to do in the 19th arrondissement

Parc des Buttes Chaumont

By far the best and most popular attraction of the 19th arrondissement is the Buttes Chaumont park, a space so large that it actually falls into both the 19th and 20th arrondissements.

Constructed during the rule of Napoleon III, Parc des Buttes Chaumont is the fifth largest park in Paris and was first opened to the public in 1867. The public space was created under the watchful eye of engineer and designer, Jean-Charles Adolphe Alphand, who is now interred in the Père Lachaise Cemetery.

The park is a sprawling wonderland, with a suspension bridge designed by Gustave Eiffel, hidden grottoes and waterfalls, and a Greco-Roman style folly offering picture perfect views of the Sacré-Coeur Basilica.

Parc de la Villette

The other large park which occupies large swathes of the 19th is Parc de la Villette, a flat green space which surrounds the Canal d-Ourcq and was once the site of the largest meat market in Paris.

However, all of this changed in the latter half of the 20th-century when the slaughterhouses were demolished and a park was created in the area. As the third largest park in Paris, there’s always something going on from concerts, to Pétanque games, and even an open-air cinema in the summer.

Bassin de la Villette

One of the most popular spots to hang out in the 19th arrondissement is none other than around Bassin de la Villette, which is the largest artificial lake in Paris and dates back to 1808. Today the neighbourhood is filled with bars, cafés, and is home to one of the locations for Paris Plages during the summer.

La Cité des Sciences et de L’Industrie

For those who love science and discovery, the Museum of Science and Industry is nestled within the Villette Park and is one of the largest science museums and planetariums in the world. It was first opened to the public in 1986 by the then French president.

There is even a section of the museum which is dedicated entirely to children and is known as ‘Cité des Enfants’ (though you have to book this in advance). Please note that the building complex also contains other things such as a Pathé cinema and some food outlets.

La Geode

One of the more unique buildings in Paris is located right next to the Science and Industry Museum and resembles a giant disco ball.

Although there is a movie theatre inside the dome, it has unfortunately been closed for renovations since 2018. La Geode was originally meant to reopen in 2020, but as of 2023, there is still no confirmation as to when it will reopen to the public.

Little Neighbourhoods

Like the rest of Paris, there are small pockets which were once villages in their own right but have since been absorbed into the fabric of Paris. One of my favourite neighbourhoods in the 19th arrondissement is La Mouzaïa, which is situated close to the peripherique of Paris and so is not in the easiest spot to reach.

Comprised of two and three-storey houses as opposed to the typical Haussmannian architecture that is so synonymous with the city, there’s plenty of cobbled lanes to see, not to mention more greenery than you’re likely to spy within the rest of the city!

Canal de l’Ourcq

The beautiful Canal de l’Ourcq arrives in Paris from the east and parallels the River Marne. Once the canal reaches Paris (before it terminates in Bassin de la Villette), it is lined with bars and cafés on either side, not to mention that it’s a pleasant place to walk along if you’re looking for a quiet stroll in the city.

Pont Crimée

At the point where the Bassin de la Villette and Canal de l’Ourcq meet, there’s a wrought iron bridge which is known as the Pont Crimée. Though not the most beautiful bridge in Paris, it remains historically pretty interesting thanks to the fact that it’s the only remaining lift bridge in Paris.

The Paris Philharmonic and Cité de la Musique

Classical Music fans and concert lovers will be rejoiced to find the Philharmonie in Paris, which is located in the 19th arrondissement and is housed within a futuristic venue. If you research enough, you can find concert tickets for as little as €10.

Église Saint Serge: Russian Orthodox Church in the 19th

Situated in the off the beaten path 19th arrondissement of the city, Église Saint Serge lies in the shadow of a much better-known northeastern Paris staple: that of Parc des Buttes Chaumont.

All wooden façade and beautifully frescoed interior, the Parisian place of worship is well worth a look if you’re ever in the area. Nearby, you’ll find the Saint-Serge Institute.

Founded in 1925, the institute is the oldest orthodox theology establishment in Western Europe and is a centre for higher education. Head here to see a side of Paris that most could never even imagine seeing…

Butte Bergeyre

One of the best-kept secrets of this area of Paris is Butte Bergeyre, a micro-arrondissement with loads of charm and one of the best views of the Sacré-Coeur. Perched on a little hill, 100m up, this area even has its own little Parisian vineyard.

If you’re looking for a place with peace and quiet, then this is it. All in all, there are only around 1200 residents, making this the kind of place that retains its village vibe in the heart of a modern metropolis.

19th arrondissement town hall

Located right next to the Parc des Buttes Chaumont, the grandeur of the 19th arrondissement town hall can be admired from all around the surrounding square. The building was constructed between 1876 and 1878 and is now used for all sorts of administrative purposes, including civil weddings.

Where to eat in the 19th arrondissement

Poilane: If there’s one bakery in Paris that you should make it your mission to visit above all others, make it Poilâne, a brand which can be found at several locations dotted across the city. After all, this is probably one of the most famous bakeries in Paris.

The most famous offering from Poilâne is the Poilâne bread which is named for the late baker, though there are plenty of other sweet and savoury options for sale in the store.

Simonetta: Set right next to the Canal (with some waterside tables if the weather is good enough), this delightful Italian restaurants offers traditional pizzas and pastas, including pistachio pasta, truffle pasta, Margherita pizzas, and Aperol Spritzes.

Topknot: If you’re looking for a unique brunch spot in Paris, then Topknot proposes a set formula on the weekend which includes bao, a seasonal salad, yoghurt, etc. If you want to have brunch here, then it’s best to reserve ahead of time as space fills up fast.

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