Place du Tertre: An Artists’ Square in the Heart of Montmartre

Last Updated on 5th October 2023 by Sophie Nadeau

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Situated in the very heart of Montmartre, one of the most famous squares of all of Paris is that of Place du Tertre, which is world-famous for its painters, cafés, and ambiance. Here’s a quick history of the Square, as well as how to visit and things to know before you go.

A history of Place du Tertre

The Montmartre square can be found a stone’s throw away from the Sacré-Coeur Basilica and dates all the way back to the 12th-century when the square lay at the very heart of the Benedictine Montmartre Abbey.

The ecclesiastical complex was established by King Louis VI in 1133 and thrived for centuries until the French Revolution at the end of the 18th-century. Place du Tertre itself was first opened to the public in 1635 as the central square for the village of Montmartre.

You see, despite what many people might think, the 18th arrondissement was not even a part of Paris itself. Instead, Montmartre was a separate village populated by windmills, vineyards, and farmland. It wasn’t until the latter half of the 19th-century that Montmartre was incorporated into the fabric of Paris itself.

From the moment the square was originally opened to the public during the 17th-century, artists, singers, and other performers would congregate in the central meeting place. After so many centuries as a cultural hub, perhaps this is why Place du Tertre remains so well-known for being an artistic centre to this day…

The artists of Place du Tertre

In spite of what you might think (because of the sheer number of artists working on the square), it’s actually pretty hard to become a painter on Place du Tertre. There are a limited number of places, which are set by the local town hall.

Each year, only five or six new spots to paint become available, which is when the artists’ in residence on the square move away or pass away. As you can imagine, getting a spot is quite coveted and hard to get!

In order to gain a permit to paint on the square, artists must submit a portfolio of their work and, if accepted and a place becomes available, they’ll be issued a card which proves they’re allowed to work on the square.

On Place du Tertre itself, there are small markings on the ground, around the central café terraces which dictate the 1 metre squared section that the artist is allowed to work from. It’s technically illegal for artists to work outside of this space in Montmartre, and artists caught doing so can face a fine.

With this being said, almost every time I head to Montmartre, people approach me as I’m walking around asking if they can ‘paint my portrait’ (and they can truly be quite persistent) so I have no idea how strictly this is enforced.

The section which is at the side of the square which is most passed by by tourists is known as the Champs Élysées and is the most coveted spot of the artists’ areas.

Please note that you should never take photos of the artists’ work close up. Many of the artists working here produce unique and original pieces and so will not appreciate having photos taken of their work. You are, of course, allowed to ask them questions about their pieces and buy a piece to take home as a souvenir!

How to visit Place du Tertre

As one of the most popular places in Paris, it should come as no surprise that Place du Tertre is forever busy and bustling. As such, if you want to make the most of the Parisian square without the crowds, then you’ll want to visit earlier in the day and mid-week if possible.

Most artists begin painting around 10 AM and carry on going until nightfall, so aim to arrive around 10 AM if you want to enjoy the square without too many crowds and see the artists at work. Visiting early on a Sunday morning can be another great time to beat the crowds as most people only begin arriving around 11 AM onwards.

Like many other famous tourist squares in Europe, the best places to shop and eat can be found a little way away from the central touristic spot, which in this case is Place du Tertre. In term of food offerings, much of Montmartre is incredibly touristic and so I would avoid most of the eateries.

With this being said, there are a few places I particularly love. GRENOUILLES is a crêperie just steps away from the Sacré-Coeur which sells piping hot galettes, as well as vin chaud during the colder months of the year.

In the summer, they sell cold drinks to go which are perfect to takeaway to the nearby Square Marcel Bleustein-Blanchet. You can take your tasty French food and head to one of the best secret views of the Sacré Coeur in a little park that is filled with greenery all year-round and even boasts wisteria in the spring.

Watch the Montmartre travel guide

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