Le Clos Montmartre: A Secret Vineyard in the heart of Paris
Last Updated on 3rd March 2023 by Sophie Nadeau
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Tucked away in the little side streets behind the Sacré-Coeur, you’ll find plenty of quirky architecture, trailing vines and narrow cobbled lanes. And if you really look hard enough (and walk around the area for long enough) you’ll also stumble upon Le Clos Montmartre, a hidden vineyard and one of the last remaining vines in central Paris…
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A History of Clos Montmartre: the Vineyard of Montmartre
Montmartre has long served as a favourite haunt for artists, painters and writers alike. So, of course, it should come as no surprise that nostalgia and a vintage vibe can be found pretty much everywhere you look.
From the winding streets to the whimsical house museums, a wander around Montmartre feels akin to stepping back in time. Longtime readers of this site will know that I absolutely adore Montmartre and have a fascination for the 18e that leads me there many a time more than other districts of the city.
In fact, there are few better ways to spend a sunny Parisian afternoon than wandering around the district, stumbling upon secret sites and discovering hidden treasures along the way.
Vines have grown in Montmartre since at least 944 when viticulture was first attested in the area. However, in the entirety of the Île de France region, grapes have been grown much longer (i.e since the Romans first introduced the drink to the area over two millennia ago).
And while many of the vines and windmills that once dominated the landscape of Montmartre in the past have since been lost, traces of nostalgia can still be found in plenty of places. Indeed, centuries ago, around 40,000 hectares of wine were grown in the Île de France region.
That’s why you would be entirely forgiven for thinking that Le Clos Montmartre has always been here. After all, it sits in the very middle of pretty houses and looks as if it some forgotten relic of the Roman era. However, this is most certainly not the case.
Instead, the vineyard you see today was created by the City of Paris in 1933 as a way of stopping real estate developers from purchasing the land. Prior to the creation of Clos Montmartre, the 0.15 hectares of land had been used as a children’s playground and dumping ground, among other things.
This new green space was welcome in a city that was quickly developing and the first ‘Harvest Festival’ of Montmartre was held the following year, in 1934. All this in spite of the fact that the newly planted vines not yet producing grapes.
Facts about the Clos Montmartre Vineyard
The vineyard is used to grow both white and red grape varieties. While the white grapes are used to make rosé wine, the red grapes are used to make red wine! The vineyard boasts the rather unusual distinction of being the vineyard in France with the most flowers!
Thanks to its enviable position on a hillside receiving plenty of natural light, the leaves of the vines at Montmartre are the only vineyard in Paris to get marbling on their leaves.
How to visit Le Clos Montmartre
Sadly Le Clos Montmartre is actually closed to the public. However, you can still wander around its exterior and admire the vines from outside the metal railings. Nearby you’ll find hidden gems like the Musée de Montmartre, Renoir Gardens and Place Dalida– what may well be the prettiest square and street in all of Paris!
Since 1980, an annual Fête des Jardins has been held to celebrate the grape harvest. For a few short weeks, the Vineyard of Montmartre is open to the public, through guided tour only.
I was lucky enough to go on a guided tour in 2022. As well as seeing the vines and all of the flowers, it was interesting to see that there’s also n insect house in the vineyard, as well as several fruiting trees; including olives, kiwis, cherries, strawberries, quince, and peaches.
All in all, up to 1000 bottles of ‘Clos Montmartre’ are produced each year. The wine bottles are auctioned during the annual harvest festival and the profits made are put towards funding projects in the 18e arrondissement.
People often joke that it’s the most expensive poor quality wine to be found anywhere in Paris thanks to the fact that a bottle of rosé costs around €25 and a bottle of red around €30.
If you’re feeling like you truly want to explore Montmartre on a more local level during your time in the city, then there’s my free and self-guided walking tour of Montmartre. Otherwise, for those wishing to stay for a longer stint, here are my suggestions for the best of Montmartre hotels.
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If you’re conversational in French, you can visit the vineyard on tours throughout the year from the Musee de Montmartre! There are guided tours that take you inside regularly for tastings, too. The festival is excellent, though!
Many years ago on a very dark quiet cool misty night I discovered Le Clos Montmartre.
It was very late and there was not a soul around.
I climbed the high and forbidding iron gate and spread the remains of my partner of 33 years.
I travel to Paris every year to visit this special place and the memory I have of that magical night in Montmartre
@David, what a great tribute to your long-time partner. No doubt, the vineyard is a especially memorable to you. Thanks for sharing, David.
I was under the impression that the nuns of the Abbaye de Montmartre had originally planted vines here as far back as the C12. At least that was what I was told in the (19) 80s when one of the workers let me onto the site after my garbled French touched a soft corner of her heart. Great piece Sophie thanks.
Such a beautiful writeup and photos, I’ve been in Paris for over 5 years and every time friends and family visit I take them from Montmartre! It keeps that small village feeling which makes a nice escape for a Parisian resident, and of course it’s a beautiful place full of charm for visiting friends/family.