How to Visit St Michael’s Mount: Cornwall’s Most Magical Tidal Island
Last Updated on 24th May 2023 by Sophie Nadeau
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A windswept island lies half a mile off the southern coast of Cornwall. Twice a day the conically shaped Cornish island of Saint Michael’s Mount is cut off from the rest of England by the salty tides.
The sandy stretch in front of the isle is known as Marazion beach, while the town itself dates back hundreds of years. Here’s how to visit St Michael’s Mount, Cornwall’s most magical tidal island.
Contents
- What’s in a name?
- Why visit St Michaels’ Mount?
- A history of St Michael’s Mount
- Legends and mystery surrounding Saint Michael’s Mount
- Things to see and do at St Michael’s Mount
- How to visit St Michael’s Mount
- Best time to visit St Michael’s Mount
- Capturing St Michael’s Mount in Photographs
- Tips for visiting St Michael’s Mount and things to know before visiting
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What’s in a name?
The sound of gulls fills the air overhead and an azure blue sea stretches out into the distance. Saint Michael’s Mount is Cornwall’s answer to Mont Saint Michel. Little-known and that bit smaller than its more famous counterpart in Normandy, St Michael’s Mount has been inhabited by man for thousands of years.
Mont St Michel of Normandy’s lesser known, younger sibling and smaller counterpart is England’s very own St Michael’s Mount (or Cornwall if you’re a Cornish nationalist who doesn’t want to be part of England…). Incidentally, the Cornish name for the Mount is ‘Carrek Los yn Cos’, meaning ‘The Grey Rock in the Wood’.
This is thought to originate back to a time when the Mount was not a tidal island but surrounded by low lying forest. Remains of trees carbon dated back around 1700 years have been found at a nearby beach; thus giving this theory plausibility.
In truth, all that the islands in Normandy and Cornwall seem to share is the same conical shape, tidal characteristics and that they were both built by the same order of Benedictine monks.
Why visit St Michaels’ Mount?
Sea air, golden sand, and a beautiful tidal island known as St Michael’s Mount: welcome to the most beautiful destination in Southern Cornwall! This smaller, lesser-known sibling of Mont Saint Michel in Normandy sits high atop a conical tidal island, imposing over the surrounding landscape and can be seen from miles away, all across the bay…
Inhabited since time immemorial (as early as 4000 BCE!), it is now home to a small hamlet and centuries-old castle. Built by the same order of Benedictine Monks as Mont Saint Michel in Normandy, it has been a destination for royalty and nobility alike for centuries, Queen Victoria and our current Queen, Elizabeth II both having visited the castle.
The Mount makes for a particularly enjoyable trip for anyone who enjoys history. Once upon a time, sea levels in the area were much lower and where St Michael’s Church now stands was once a raised forest.
Woodland and ancient forest covered the ground at Mount’s Bay, as was revealed by a particularly ferocious storm in 2014. Today, the medieval church at the very summit of the mount is dedicated to St Michael, as so many along the coast of the South West are.
And, the ecclesiastical building was even constructed by the very same order of monks as that of Mont Saint Michel in Normandy. The population of St Michael’s Mount is just 35 residents. Similarly, in nearby Marazion town, there’s plenty of Elizabethan history of uncover…
A history of St Michael’s Mount
Archaeological evidence dates human activity at the mount as far back as 6000 years ago. The key piece to this dating was a flint arrowhead found in the grounds of the castle. From the 8th-11th centuries, the site was used as a monastery.
Edward the Confessor (one of the last Anglo-Saxon kings) gave the island to the same order of Benedictine monks who built the monastery upon Mont St Michel in Normandy.
Unfortunately, the original priory church was destroyed following an earthquake in 1275 and so the building that can be seen today is the rebuild from the 14th century (still pretty old)!
When Henry V went to war with France in the 15th Century, the island was re-seized and handed over to an abbess from a Convent in Middlesex; all ties with Mont St Michel in Normandy ceased. In 1659, the Mount was sold off to Colonel John St Aubyn and it remains in the family today.
The current ‘tenant’ is Lord St Levan who regularly hosts celebrated and famous guests from the world over. In the past 15 years alone, the late Queen Elizabeth II and Lateb Prince Phillip have been among welcomed visitors.
In 1900, an underground railway was created to transport goods to the property. Unfortunately, due to the nature of the steep gradient and age of the railway, it is unavailable for public viewing.
In 1954, most of St Michael’s Mount was given to the National Trust. Together with a large endowment fund, a stipulation was made that the family be allowed to reside at the castle for the next 999 years.
Legends and mystery surrounding Saint Michael’s Mount
Giant’s Well & The beginnings of the fairytale ‘Jack and the Giant Killer’…
The mount is said to lay on a ley line and as can only be expected with such a mysterious and ancient site, the place is teeming with myths and legends. It is also associated with the well-known fairy tale of ‘Jack and the Giant Killer’.
Myth has it that the entire mount was built by a giant named Cormoran (in some versions he is helped by his wife Cornelian). It’s important to note that the name ‘Cormoran’ is not original to Cornwall and actually first appeared in the storybook ‘Jack and the Giant Killer’, printed in Newcastle-Upon-Tyne. In Geoffrey of Monmouth’s 12th-century version of the tale, the giant is named Gogmagog. CONFUSING.
Anyway, with this confusing etymology of the Giant’s name aside, I’ll now carry on with the legend. Apparently, the giant, being a giant, is said to have terrorised the local population.
Walking across the bay when the tide was out (although being 18ft high, I’m not really sure why he had to wait until the tide was out), he would eat men, women and children alike before returning to the cave on the island of St Michael’s Mount with at least a dozen farmyard animals in tow for a late night snack (yummy).
Now around this time, there was a local lad who was chivalrous, strong and brave (yes, I am clearly now talking about Jack!). He saw what the giant was doing to his village and the surrounding pastures and just couldn’t take it anymore. Now, of course, he was also very cunning. So, late one night, when the giant was asleep, he swam across to the island and dug a 22 ft trapping pit.
I have two problems with this;
1) The giant was already 18ft so surely he could have jumped the extra four foot to climb up the pit
2) What’s with all these absolutely accurate measurements in a fairytale?
Anyway, so he dug this pit and when morning came, he blew on his horn. The giant obviously woke up and chased across the island. However, he stumbled in the pit that Jack had dug the night before and after some time teasing and taunting, Jack finally killed him with a pickax.
Upon the giant’s death, Jack retrieved the island’s treasure and he was awarded a belt saying ‘Giant Slayer’ by the town of Penwith (bet that attracted all the ladies). On my right in the picture below, you can see the now covered well.
Giant’s Heart in the centre of the cobbled lane leading up to the castle
Look closely otherwise you may miss this tennis ball heart-shaped rock. It is set into the cobbled walkway a little way up from the Giant’s Well.
Legend claims that when the giant fell in the well, his heart somehow detached and ended up as a stone on the surface of the Earth (is that scientifically possible)? Apparently, if you stand on the heart, you can still hear the giant’s heartbeat.
Things to see and do at St Michael’s Mount
Chapel and St Michael Castle
The 14th-century chapel stands proudly in the center of an amalgamation of earlier monastic buildings and later family home-esque additions. Fortifications to the buildings mean that the buildings are a fully functioning castle complete with a working portcullis.
Inside, there are all kinds of artefacts and objets de vertu. From a mummified cat to the armour of a samurai warrior, the castle encapsulates a mix of cultures, languages, and interests; matching its tumultuous history. The architecture and history of the fortifications make St Michael’s one of the best castles in Cornwall.
St Michael’s Mount Tropical Gardens
Of all the tips for visiting Saint Michael’s Mount, this is often the one that is most overlooked. It isn’t a matter of safety or practicality, but more of preference. The sub-tropical gardens that line the rocky outcrop to the base of Saint Michael’s Mount are unlike anything you’d expect to find in the UK.
Sub-tropical gardens lie at the base of the Mount facing the sea. This is pretty surprising considering the harsh salt winds consistently battering the island. In actual fact, there are very rarely frosts on the island and the amount of stone actually acts as a giant radiator, allowing palm trees and like to flourish.
When I visited, I was informed that I was incredibly lucky that is was such a lovely, sunny and warm day (apparently a rare occurrence). Steep pathways and rocky outcrops are interspersed with terraced garden spaces.
Aloe, palm trees, and giant agapanthus are abundant, making this a beautiful location to wander around. From the garden, you also get a clear impression of the feat of architecture that building at the top of the mount must have been.
The gardens are also home to the remains of WWII batteries. They are a stark reminder of some of the turbulent times that the island has faced. One of the batteries can be entered, giving you an idea of the kind of cramped conditions that soldiers during the war faced as part of their daily lives and routines.
How to visit St Michael’s Mount
The island lies just off the coast from the nearby town of Marazion. There is a large car park and many B&Bs within the town itself. Okay, so you’ve finally arrived in Marazion and you’ve parked up your car. Now, what? I mean, it is an island after all.
Being a tidal island, twice a day for short periods of time, it is possible to walk across the causeway. The cobbled road can be seen submerged by water in the picture above.
From across Mounts Bay, the stunning island can be viewed at any time. That is, of course, with the exception of when the sea mist rolls in and obscures even the brightest lights from view.
Marazion beach is open every day throughout the year, though the parking by the beach is only open during reasonable daylight hours. For those looking to visit the Mount in the early morning or after dusk has set in, then parking can be found within Marazion town itself.
During low tide, it’s possible to cross the causeway along an ancient track, following in the footsteps of so many before you. Before crossing, be sure to check the causeway opening times to avoid disappointment and stay safe!
While the causeway requires good walking shoes, it’s a short walk, taking no more than ten to fifteen minutes to cross to the pretty harbour of St Michael’s Mount. Access to the island is free and once there, there’s a small pub and a few shops to enjoy.
Visiting the castle and church itself, however, is paid and they are open from Sunday through to Friday. If you find that the causeway is flooded during your visit then fear not, for it is still perfectly possible to visit St Michael’s Mount.
A regular passenger ferry transports visitors to-and-from the island throughout the Spring, Summer, and Autumn during the daytime. The crossing costs a couple of pounds, and just £1 for children.
Best time to visit St Michael’s Mount
So iconic is the island, that it has been used as the backdrop to film a whole host of TV Series, movies, and films. In more recent times, some of the more famous things to have been shot at the Mount include Dracula, This Morning, and Twelfth Night.
Throughout the year, the dramatic skyline is mirrored in the ever-changing coast. As such, the Mount is always worth a visit, no matter what the weather or time of day. With that being said, should you wish to visit the castle, church, and tropical islands, you should aim to visit just before or just after peak season.
This way, you’ll get to enjoy the treasures and hidden gems of the Cornish tidal island without all the crowds which inevitably flock here come summertime!
The nearby town of Marazion and Penzance offer some of the best views of the island all day long and both destinations make for perfect weekend breaks. Check here for the best hotels in Marazion, and check here for the best places to stay in Penzance!
Capturing St Michael’s Mount in Photographs
Of course, Saint Michael’s Mount is one of the most beautiful places to visit in Cornwall and so it’s magical to see all of the time. However, the best time to visit the Mount is within the golden hour (i.e. the times around sunrise and sunset) when a golden glow bathes everything in a warm light. In order to capture the island with few or no people, then I recommend getting up incredibly early and capturing the sunrise.
If that’s not possible, then sunset still works pretty well! The best rockpools at Marazion beach can be found to the left-hand side of the cobbled lane leading to the island when facing St Michael’s Mount head on.
For the best sand on the beach (and therefore the best location to capture water reflections), head to the right-hand side of the beach. When it comes to snapping the reflections on the water, here’s a complete guide to creating mirror reflections in the water with your camera!
Tips for visiting St Michael’s Mount and things to know before visiting
If you’re planning on walking during your trip to Cornwall, you should know that the South West coastal path is the longest trail in England and follows the coastline around the entirety of Cornwall.
Bodmin Moor is the main moor in Cornwall, and while beautiful, it can require plenty of walking in certain areas. It can be hard to hike in places and so good walking shoes like these ones are an absolute must.
Whatever the time of the year that you’re visiting Cornwall, rain is always a possibility and so it’s important to be prepared for showers (even during the summer) with a good waterproof coat like this one.
Bring a warm jacket
Gulf stream air means that there is rarely frost up at the Mount. However, that doesn’t mean that it doesn’t get a little cold, particularly in the shoulder seasons. As such, be sure to bring a warm jacket with you, particularly for windier days!
Wear Sturdy Shoes
Both the walk along the causeway (if you’re approaching the island at low tide) and the climb up to the castle are full of uneven stones. If you’re planning to walk along the beach next to Marazion, and explore the gardens on Saint Michael’s Mount itself, then flat, comfortable shoes are an absolute necessity. of all the tips for visiting Saint Michael’s Mount, this may well be the most important…
Visit the Beach at Marazion
St Michael’s Mount is located a little off the coast of Southern Cornwall. Its closest neighbour is Marazion; the village from which you traverse the sea to reach the island. Attached to Marazion is a long, sandy beach. Golden dunes stretch out into the distance and it’s definitely worth a stroll down.
At low tide, you can frequently capture incredible shots of the island reflected in the receding waterline. (If you’re unsure on how to create the ‘perfect’ puddlegram shot, I have written a guide here!)
Bring some spare change!
The tidal island is only approachable via foot for a couple of hours twice a day. As such, it’s highly likely that you’ll have to take the ferry to the island, at least in one direction. Ferries depart fairly frequently and cost £2 per adult, each way.
You can only pay in cash and card is not accepted. The nearby town of Marazion has cash points, but you could end up wasting a lot of time trying to find an ATM if you don’t come with cash with you, to begin with. If you’re planning to walk along the causeway to either reach or return from the island, the St Michael’s Mount website is updated daily with tide times.
Pack your camera
If there’s one thing I can’t stress enough, it’s how beautiful the island and surrounding Mount’s Bay are! Even if you’re not typically into ‘taking photos’, then I can guarantee you might want to capture some memories here.
After all, on a blue and sunny day, it’s hard to believe you’re in Southern Cornwall, and not somewhere in Spain! For more inspiration, be sure to check out our travel photography gear guide.
Give yourself plenty of time to see everything!
There’s plenty to see and do on both the island and around the bay. From a walk along the beach to a quiet moment in the medieval chapel, make sure you leave yourself enough time to actually see everything properly. I recommend at least half a day is allocated to visiting Saint Michael’s Mount, if not more.
DON’T visit on a Saturday!
The castle and gardens are both closed on a Saturday. As the ancient hilltop fort is still managed by the National Trust in conjunction with the family, it is closed to the public for one day of the week to allow the family some privacy. The gardens are by and large open the rest of the week, though they are sometimes closed to protect the fragile stone and landscaping.