Cagnes-sur-Mer & Haut-de-Cagnes Guide

Last Updated on 17th June 2024 by Charlotte Nadeau

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Medieval Haut-de-Cagnes is a perched village, meaning that it presides over the surrounding countryside, is home to an illustrious fortress turned museum, and offers stunning vistas of the surrounding French Riviera landscape. The town is actually part of the larger Cagnes-sur-Mer, a former fishing port turned resort town. Here’s your guide to the best of Haut-de-Cagnes, as well as travel tips and what to know before you go.

Introducing Cagnes-sur-Mer

Cagnes-sur-Mer is actually split into several parts. While the lower town, which is close to the station, is pleasant enough, it’s really modern and so not as interesting to visitors as the upper town as it’s the kind of settlement which can be found pretty much anywhere in France.

The upper town is the real star of the show as it dates back to the Middle Ages and was even where the acclaimed artist Renoir chose to spend the final years of his life.

Other artist who were charmed by Haut-de-Cagnes include  Matisse, Modigliani, Soutine, Villeri, and Derain. Indeed, over the decades the town drew many a celebrity including Josephine Backer, Suzy Solidor, Georges Simenon, and Brigitte Bardot.

It was so popular among celebrities that it was known as ‘Montmartre de la Côte d’Azur’ (the Montmartre of the French Riviera) Haut-de-Cagnes is a perched village, like those found in Provence, and probably began life as a Roman oppidum (town), if not a Ligurian one. Its name means “inhabited place on a rounded hill”.

This part of town is oh-so historic (it’s been classed as a historic site since 1948) and it now only home to around 650 permanent residents. There is also a pretty yacht harbour close to the newer part of town. All in all, this is one of the best villages in the French Riviera.

When to visit Cagnes-sur-Mer

The sound of clinking glasses and birds chirping permeates throughout Place du Château. It’s an overcast Tuesday morning in late February, and aside from a few locals starting an early lunch at one of the quintessentially French cafés in the square, I pretty much have the place to myself.

I walked up from the train station below (a hard slog of around 20 minutes that can easily be avoided if you locate the free shuttle from the lower town) and acquired a delicious sandwich in a boulangerie en route which I quickly snarf up while watching those in the cafés scattered around the square

The high season for Haut-de-Cagnes is in July and August, though my personal preference to visit the French Riviera region is in late spring or early autumn, when the weather is fine (and not too hot) and the crowds are fewer than in the warmest months of the year.

Things to do in Haut-de-Cagnes

Wander the town

Truth be told, is that once you’ve made it up to Haut de Cagnes, one of the most pleasant things to do is simply to stroll around the town and allow your feet to guide you through the little cobbled streets and past the shuttered windows.

One of the more interesting features of the town that you’ll soon notice is that many of the town’s ramparts are still intact. Indeed, in order to enter the highest parts of the village, you’ll have to wander underneath medieval gateways which have names like Porte de Nice and Porte de St Roch. The main entrance to the village during medieval times was Porte de Saint Paul.

Le Pontis Long

While there’s a charming corner around almost every turn, one street in particular deserves a special mention. Le Pontis Long is a covered passage that traverses through houses and ends at La Goulette, one of the oldest houses in Haut-de-Cagnes (which dates back to the 14th-century).

Place du Château

As one of the highest points in town, this beautiful square is filled with traditional eateries and offers stunning views onto the surrounding French Riviera countryside. This is also where you’ll find the entrance points for some of the most important museums in town.

Contemporary Jewellery Museum

One of the more interesting aspects of Cagnes-sur-Mer is that, in spite of its small size, there are a number of museums worth checking out. One of the more unusual ones is the contemporary Jewellery Museum.

This museum is free to visit and was established by cabaret singer Suzy Soldior. In 1960, the singer created her cabaret-restaurant and tea room, then an antique shop in this group of houses at the corner of the Place du Château. Today, the group of buildings houses the jewellery museum.

Eglise Saint Pierre et Saint Paul 

One of the more historic buildings in Haut-de-Cagnes is the church of St Pierre and St Paul. Visitors actually enter the church via the upstairs gallery (which I have never seen done before) but was a beautiful and unique perspective from which to enjoy the ecclesiastical building.

Château-Musée-Grimaldi

Located at the very top of Haut-de-Canges, in the highest spot in town, the former fortified château has been transformed into a museum. The fortification was constructed by a Grimaldi (part of the Grimaldis of Monaco) in the 14th-century.

A branch of the Royals resided in the château from the beginning of the 1300s and right up until the French Revolution, when they were forced to flee the town. The château became a museum in 1946, which is also when it was classed as a Historic Monument.

Open from Wednesday through to Monday, the museum houses a modern art and ethnography museum inside. Some of the more interesting paintings on display include works by Foujita, Jean Cocteau, and Kees van Dongen.

Musée Renoir

Renoir spent the last 12 years of his life in Cagnes-sur-Mer which is known as his “Cagnoise” period. Today, his former Neo-Provençal home (built for the family in 1908) has been transformed into a museum showcasing over a dozen of the artist’s paintings, as well as some of his personal items.

French Riviera painting signs

While wandering around Haut-de-Cagnes, you’ll soon notice that there are a number of panels depicting various paintings done by iconic painters of the old village. These panels are displayed from where the painting is meant to depict and are a great insight straight back in time.

La Chapelle Notre Dame de la Protection

This chapel lies on the fringes of the old town, overlooking the stunning surrounding landscape and actually dates back to the 14th-century. Originally, it would have consisted of a single nave to house pilgrims. It was then expanded by Jean-Henri de Grimaldi after one of his prayers was answered by the Virgin Mary.

What to know before visiting Cagnes-sur-Mer

Regular trains run from Nice, Menton, Cannes, etc all along the French Riviera every half an hour or so during the daytime, meaning that it couldn’t be easier to get to Cagnes-sur-Mer. In fact, the time between Cagnes and Nice is only 25 minutes on the train, making it one of the best day trips from Nice.

There’s a tourist office around a ten minute walk from the train station (Cagnes-sur-Mer) where you can get a guided tourist route for Haut-de-Cagnes. If you don’t want to walk all the way up to the perched old village, then there’s a free electric bus 24/7.

The No. 44 runs throughout the year every 15 minutes between 7 AM and 10:30 PM and runs from square Bourde (near the train station) to the old village. Just be sure to wear comfortable shoes as the only way to get around Haut-de-Cagnes is on foot due to the narrow streets and many steps.

Where to stay in Cagnes-sur-Mer

If you’re looking to get away from the hustle and bustle of busy life, I really recommend booking a stay in Cagnes-sur-Mer, and more specifically, in Haut-de-Cagnes. Here are some suggestions for an extra special stay:

Le Cagnard: This 4-star hotel is located just a 2-minute walk from Chateau Musée Grimaldi and is set against the backdrop of a medieval building. Amenities include free Wi-Fi and air conditioning. Check prices and availability here.

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