An Insider’s Guide to the Best of Paris’ 13th Arrondissement

Last Updated on 28th February 2023 by Sophie Nadeau

A fun blend of old meets new, the 13th arrondissement is an often appreciated district of the city which lies on the rive gauche (left bank- south) of the river Seine. Here’s your ultimate guide to the best things to do in the 13th arrondissement.

The lost River Bièvre

One of the most important things to note about the 13e is its rich history, particularly that pertaining to the lost Bièvre River. It was this waterway that flowed from its source in the Yvelines right up to Paris and through the 5th and 13th arrondissements.

At this time, the 13th arrondissement was not considered a part of Paris proper (due to its location outside of the wall of Philip Augustus) and so it was not privy to the taxes of Paris. This fact, coupled with the river, gave rise to several industries in the area.

For example, from the 1300s, many tanners and dyers set up shop along the banks of the Bièvre on account of the fact that flowing water was vital to their industries. It was also in this area that the Gobelins factory was founded.

Gobelins is important in French history as they dyed rich tapestries for the French Royal Family. Other industries to make use of the River Bièvre included weavers, shoemakers, and launderers.

Unfortunately, the industrialisation of the area led to the overpollution of the river, and so during the 19th-century, the river was covered up and now flows through the Paris sewer system.

Today, there is no real way to follow in the steps of the River Bièvre, safe for a few bronze plaques embedded in the pavement. Places such as Cité Florale are now constructed on the dried up banks of where the river once flowed.

Best things to do in the 13th arrondissement in Paris

Cité Florale 

Paris is home to a number of secret villages that were once communities in their own right but have since become absorbed into the fabric of Paris itself. One of my favourite is Cité Florale; a teeny tiny greenery filled area nestled away in the 13e arrondissement of the city…

The micro arrondissement quite literally lives up to its name of ‘Cité Florale’. After all, the area is simply a small city of flowers, bushes, and greenery. Vines, wisteria and ivy trail off the side of the houses.

Butte aux Cailles 

Yet another micro-arrondissement that’s worth checking out in the 13th is Butte aux Cailles. Highlights of Butte aux Cailles (translated into English as ‘Quails Hill’) include plenty of Art Nouveau architecture, countless cobbled lanes, and lots of street art, notably many works by local artist, Miss. Tic.

Îlot de la Reine Blanche 

The Gobelins family were wealthy tapestry manufacturers during the middle ages, and today a popular métro station (metro line 7) is even named after this illustrious family. And located in the 13e arrondissement of Paris, down a little winding lane, you’ll find their former mansion residence, Château de la Reine Blanche.

During the summer months, free tours of the grounds take place on a regular basis. The tours are also held on heritage days throughout September, though if you’re visiting during any other time of the year the château is well worth a look from the outside. 

Petite Alsace

One of the more unusual little villages in Paris is unfortunately typically closed to the public but can still be admired via its unique exterior. Petite Alsace is located at 10, rue Daviel and is so-called thanks to the fact that its 1912 constructed timber-framed houses are reminiscent of those found in Eastern France

Villa Daviel 

Just across the street from Petite Alsace, visitors will soon stumble upon Villa Daviel, a delightful cobbled impasse that’s open to the public and is characterised by its abundance of greenery.

Much like many other villages of Paris, the road is home to two storey brick houses that differ from the typical Haussmannian architecture that visitors expect to see in Paris. Much like Petite Alsace, the road was opened in 1912.

Temple Antoiniste

While wandering around the 13th arrondissement you’ll spy plenty of skyscrapers and modern blocks of flats, Temple Antoiniste (located at 34 Rue Vergniaud) is an unusual building which resembles a small white church and is located in the very heart of the 13th arrondissement.

The place of worship was actually constructed for the religious movement of Antoinism, which is known as the Culte Antoiniste in French. The movement was founded in 1910 by Louis-Joseph Antoine and beliefs of those who follow the religion include a blend of elements of Catholicism, reincarnation, and healing. 

Pourquoi Pas? Antique shop

French brocantes are world-famous thanks to their charm and the fact that heading to them feels something akin to a treasure hunt. After all, you never know what you’ll stumble upon next!

Well, Pourquoi Pas? is literally translated into ‘Why Not?’ in English and is an old warehouse turned gallery filled with an eclectic wealth of objects and antique from all over the world. The store is located just across the street from the Temple Antoiniste and is open from 1 PM to 7 PM on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays.

Ruins of the Couvent des Cordelières

One of the more unusual hidden gems of the 13e is actually not very easily spied from the roadside. For, hidden behind a fairly tall hedge, and now a part of the Hôpital Broca AP-HP (hospital) private gardens, there lie the remains of the Couvent des Cordelières.

The convent was created at the best of the Marguerite de Provence, a royal, at the end of the 13th-century. At this time, the 13th arrondissement would not have been a part of Paris proper and the convent owned 8 acres of land. In 1796 the land was sold and by 1834, the convent had been transformed into the hospital.

Passerelle Simone de Beauvoir

Those in search of one of the most unusual bridges in Paris would be well served by heading to Passerelle Simone de Beauvoir, which is a pedestrian footbridge which crosses the River Seine. The bridge was constructed between 2004 and 2006 and links the 12th and 13th arrondissements.

Street art

One of the best things to do in the 13th arrondissement is to stroll around and look at all of the street art. From murals which cover the entire façade of a block of flats to Invader mosaics, there’s no shortage of unique, interesting, and beautiful works of art to discover.

Cherry blossoms 

One of the best parts about visiting Paris during the spring is the sheer number of beautiful cherry blossom trees everywhere. And one of the lesser-known spots for enjoying cherry blossoms in Paris is in the 13th arrondissement. Simply head to mail de Bièvre during the end of March/ beginning of April

Les Gobelins Teddy bears

If you’ve spent any time in Paris during the past few years, then you’ll have seen that the phenomenon of cafés placing giant teddy bears in their terraces has all but taken over the city.

Well, interestingly enough, this phenomenon actually began in the 13th arrondissement. The trend actually began in late 2018 when the ‘nounours des Gobelins’ (teddy bears of Gobelins) first popped up in the less-touristed area of the 13th district of Paris, before being adopted by other establishments across the French capital.

Map of the 13th arrondissement

Where to stay in the 13th arrondissement

The 13th arrondissement is not the most popular place to stay in the city (that award probably goes to Montmartre or Le Marais) but it does make a good base for someone who wants to avoid the hustle and bustle of the city centre and who wants to stay in a quieter, more residential neighbourhood. Here are some of the best places to stay in the 13e based on web-reviews and location:

Budget: This low-cost hostel is a stone’s throw away from the Galerie des Gobelins museum and is also pretty close to  Place d’Italie metro station. There are dorm rooms available as well as private rooms for an extra fee. Some rooms have balconies. Check prices and availability here.

Mid-range: This no-fuss three-star hotel is situated close to the metro and has highlights such as free Wi-Fi, air conditioning, and accepts pets at an extra charge. Check prices and availability here.

Luxury: For the crème de la crème of a stay in the 13th arrondissement, you need to look no further than this four-star hotel, which lies alongside the River Seine and boasts amenities such as a pool, conditioning, and free Wi-Fi. Check prices and availability here.

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Sophie Nadeau loves dogs, books, travel, pizza, and history. A Francophile at heart, she runs solosophie.com when she’s not chasing after the next sunset shot or consuming something sweet. She splits her time between Paris and London and travels as much as she can! Subscribe to Sophie’s YouTube Channel.

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