A Foodie Guide to Traditional Dishes in Normandy (Norman Cuisine & Drinks)

Last Updated on 1st July 2024 by Sophie Nadeau

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Like much of French cuisine, the traditional dishes of Normandy are rich and buttery. Most famously characterised by the “Four C’s of Normandy Cuisine”, which are crème, camembert, cider, and calvados. The French region is renowned for its dairy production, and apple orchards, resulting in Normandy’s beloved traditional cuisine. Here’s your ultimate foodie guide to traditional dishes in Normandy and the origins of their history.

A brief introduction to Normandy’s cuisine

First, a little about the region in question: Normandy is a geographical region in Northern mainland France. The name ‘Normandy’ or ‘Normandie’ as it is so-called in France, derives from the old French meaning north man. 

Surrounded by the sea and characterised by its rich history and fairytale châteaux, the northern French region is particularly loved for its mouthwatering cuisine and the foods that have originated from its charming towns.

Lots of the food and drinks produced by the region are protected under the French label of AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) which is designed to protect distinctive and traditional regional products, meaning that unless certified, it’s not the true product you are tasting.

Traditional dishes found in Normandy

Camembert rôti

This soft buttery cheese first originated in the Normandy region in the late 18th century in a town which will come as no surprise, called Camembert. Officially known as Camembert de Normandie, similar to champagne, the cheese variety was made an AOC in 1992 and is an emblem of the region, so although it can be made elsewhere the only true camembert comes from Normandy itself.

Camembert rôti translates to “roasted camembert”, it’s one of the most popular dishes of the region. Typically served as a main course with slices of crusty French baguette, grapes and a side salad or roasted vegetables.

Cheese from Normandy

Normandy’s landscape of luscious green fields is perfect for raising cows, in turn, dairy farming has developed well and as a result, Normandy is France’s biggest dairy region, producing four famous cheeses and lots of milk! They even have a native breed of dairy cattle known as Normande cows.

The cheeses of Normandy are particularly unique because of their creamy texture and buttery flavour. This is claimed to be down to the green pastures from which the cows graze, thanks to the region’s proximity to the sea, the soil is fertile and perfect for growing dense lush green tufts of mineral-rich grass.

• Livarot – Considered to be one of the oldest cheeses of Normandy, it’s believed to date back to the late Middle Ages, but only gained popularity in the 17th century when it was more possible to transport it. Matured for up to two months, the cheese turns runny and golden at room temperature.
• Camembert – Originated in the 18th century, this cheese is often compared to another French cheese Brie, though it is aged for less time, typically between 3-4 weeks.
• Neufchâtel – There are claims that this is one of the oldest cheeses in all of France! With origins dating back to the 6th century, Neufchâtel is named after the sleepy town it came from and is unique in that it is heart-shaped. The story goes that a young French farm girl fell in love with an English soldier who occupied the area, so gave him a heart-shaped cheese as a sign of her affection. To this day, the cheese is made using traditional methods.
• Pont l’évêque – Similar to camembert, yet the rind of this cheese is washed before it is aged. This cheese also claims to be one of the oldest Norman cheeses… though it was first created in the 12th century by Cistercian monks. The cheese was formerly known just as “Angelot”, named after the gold ‘angel’ coin that was used as a form of currency at the time.

All four of these cheeses are PDO-certified Normandy cheeses, and all are named after the town from which they originated, or in the case of Pont l’évêque, the village around which its production was centred.

Normandy cider

When thinking of alcoholic beverages in France, typically first thoughts lead to vineyards and fine wines. However, when it comes to Normandy, one of the best and most famous regional delicacies is its cider!

First, let’s talk about Normandy’s apple culture. The region has often been referred to as the “orchard of France” and has more apple trees planted here than anywhere else in the country. Brimming with apple orchards, the region is home to over 750 varieties of apples, with 50 of these being used for cider production alone.

The development of cider production in the region began in the 11th century, though some claim earlier, and thanks to the abundance of apple trees, there was plenty of fruit, so what better way to ensure its preservation than transforming it into a beverage?

Pressed and fermented, the apples become cider (and once distilled calvados). Sweet yet dry, this unique tasting cider pairs perfectly with Norman desserts like Crêpes Normande! (see below)

Calvados

Taking cider one step further, Calvados was born. Calvados is a type of brandy that comes from the small town of Calvados in Normandy and is more commonly known as “apple brandy”, as it is created using both apples (sometimes pears) and a double distillation method.

Calvados is drunk neat or on ice and is typically served as an aperitif or during a meal.

Apple juice

Of course, the region also produces a non-alcoholic apple beverage, in the form of a ripe and tangy refreshing apple juice! 100% squeezed on the Normandy orchards with no added preservatives. Another drink which is popular in the region is sparkling apple or pear juice!

Normandy apple tart

Tarte Normande is a classic French dessert, characterised by its buttery, flaky pastry and thinly sliced apples that are baked until golden and caramelised. The tart is usually served on its own, but sometimes with a helping of whipped cream and calvados.

Crêpes Normande

Another apple speciality of the region comes in the form of the traditional delicious French crêpe, filled with caramelized apples and finished off with a splash of calvados.

The crêpe itself was invented in the neighbouring region of Brittany. With a history dating back to the 13th century, the crêpe was born a “happy accident” when a housewife accidentally dribbled some thin porridge onto a hot, flat cooktop, which turned into a thin and crispy morsel we now widely know and love today.

Galette

Though this tasty dish resembles the crêpe, instead of being made from wheat flour, it is made from buckwheat flour (known as sarrasin in French). This savoury dish is typically cooked with an egg, cheese, ham, or vegetables and makes for a delicious hearty lunch.

Andouilette

This is a French sausage, which has to be said, is rarely seen outside of France as it’s not exactly to everyones taste… it’s said to have a distinctive odour. The coarse-grain sausage is generally made with the intestine of a pig, and seasoned with pepper, wine and onions.

Though no one is quite sure of the exact origins of this delicacy, it can commonly be found throughout the Normandy region.

Marmite Dieppoise

Thanks to the region’s proximity to the coast, fresh seafood is a staple part of its cuisine. Marmite Dieppoise is a delicacy of Normandy fish stew, a traditional and comforting food that is simple and hearty.

The main ingredients are a blend of seafood, butter, shallots, white wine or cider, cream and seasoning of salt, pepper and herbs. The dish is typical of Normandy cuisine, rich and creamy.

Trou Normande

This dish is known as a ‘pause’ between meals, it translates into English as “Norman Hole” and is a tradition that’s deeply rooted in Norman cuisine, going back over 400 years ago. The tradition is that diners partake in a glass of calvados (or sometimes calvados sorbet) to make room for the remaining courses, and also to aid digestion.

Tripes à la mode de Caen

This Normandy stew comes from the port city of Caen and traditionally it was made using all four chambers of a cattle’s stomach, part of the large intestine, plus the hooves and bones (which are removed before serving), cut up and placed in a pot with carrots, onions, leeks and seasoning, a bottle of cider (Normandy cider of course) and a glass of Calvados. Note, France banned the use of cow intestines in food in 1996.

Though the stew is served throughout the year, it’s often thought of as an Autumn dish and mostly eaten around the time when the apple trees are bearing fruit.

Fish and chips

Though often considered to be a British traditional dish, fish and chips can actually be found all up and down the northern French coastline too. Traditionally this is a battered fish (cod, hake, or a local catch) served with a piping hot pile of french fries and tartare sauce.

Omelette à la Mère Poulard

This omelette is named after Anne Boutiaut Poulard, who was known as Mère Poulard (Mother Poulard), and was a French innkeeper and cook in Mont-Saint-Michel. She gained notability for both her hospitality and more so, her omelette creation which went on to become a specialty of the region.

Often referred to as the most famous omelette in the world, this dish originated in the 19th century when Poulard and her husband worked in an inn on the tidal island. The changing tides were unpredictable, and in turn, so were the number of travellers, so Poulard never knew how many to cook for. Luckily, a quick solution was to feed people with an easy appetizer, which is how the omelette came to be.

To this very day, one of the best things to do in Mont-Saint-Michel is to try the world-renowned omelette à la Mère Poulard!

Teurgoule

Teurgoule is a French rice pudding that is a speciality of Normandy and a family dish. Slow-baked, forming a brown caramelised upper crust, the pudding is creamy and sweetened with sugar, sometimes nutmeg or cinnamon is added as extra flavour. Traditionally, it is cooked in an earthenware terrine for several hours.

Coquilles Saint-Jacques

This delicacy is known for its delicate taste and generous size, fresh from the English Channel, the scallop season typically takes place from December to March.

Scallops are emblematic of Normandy’s fishing scene and it is the leading French scallop fishing region, the largest scallop fishing port is situated in the Calvados département, Port-en-Bessin.

Coquilles Saint-Jacques translates to “the Shell of Saint James”, which takes its name from the Catholic tradition that claims the corpse of James the Great was recovered from a shipwreck near large scallops.

Boudin Noir

Translated as “black pudding”, you may be familiar with this style of blood sausage, which is a sausage filled with blood and then either cooked or dried and mixed with a filler until solid (in Normandy they typically use cream with apples or onion as a filler). In Normandy, Boudin Noir is traditionally served with a combination of mashed potatoes and apples.

Mussels

Yes, Moules Marinières (marinated mussels) are a traditional French dish, but in Normandy, they make it their own! Mussels Normandy-style are served in an apple cider and apple brandy sauce with mouthwatering slices of crusty baguette.

Visiting the market

One of the greatest ways to dive deeper into French cuisine is by heading to a local market. Some of the best markets in Normandy can be found as follows:

Le Havre – On Friday mornings a market takes place where predominantly fresh local fruits and vegetables are sold, but also dairy products, fish, poultry, cold meats and plenty more available!

Pont-l’Évêque – Held every Monday morning until 1 PM , this friendly market sells local produce of fresh fruits, vegetables, meats, butter, creams and cheeses, including of course the famous heart-shaped butter cheese of the commune!

Rouen – The city has several markets, the most famous being Saint-Marc market, which is held on Tuesdays, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays.

Saint-Pierre-Sur-Dives – Every Monday morning there are over 200 stalls selling local produce and the market hall bustles with eager visitors looking to pick up some Normandy delgihts.

Courseulles-sur-Mer – The fish market of Courseulles is open every morning of the year and you can find all sorts of freshly local caught seafood, from sea breams, ray wings, mackerel, scallops, mussels and plenty more.

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