Portmeirion: A Little Piece of Italy in North Wales

Last Updated on 22nd August 2024 by Sophie Nadeau

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An unassuming splash of colourful Italianate architecture resides in the north of Wales on the estuary of the River Dwyryd. Portmeirion is an enchanting fantasy village which can transport its visitors to the realms of somewhere reminiscent of that in the Italian Riviera. Here’s your guide on how to visit Portmeirion: a little piece of Italy in Wales, as well as top tips and what to know before you go!

What is Portmeirion?

Portmeirion Village is the most colourful town in all of Wales! The brainchild of architect Clough Williams-Ellis, who hoped that the village would inspire others, this pocket of north Wales is a is a folly tourist village of Italianate architecture that sits beside an estuary in Gwynedd.

A history of the Italianate village

The history of Portmeirion may surprise you as, despite the old-timey feel of its buildings, the village was only built between 1925 and 1975. Portmeirion was designed by the Welsh architect Sir Clough Williams-Ellis, with the hopes of creating a space which would inspire all those who visit.

Sir Clough Williams-Ellis’ design was to have a splash of colourful buildings built in the Baroque style. Though there have been claims that the design was based on the fishing village of Portofino on the Italian Riviera, Clough has denied this and simply stated he wanted to evoke a ‘Mediterranean feel’.

Portmeirion as a destination was only ever meant to be a hotel; no one has ever lived here, and that might explain why many people who visit say it has a “theme park” vibe to it and why there are not many things to see and do.

Today, Portmeirion is privately owned property, therefore if you wish to visit the town you either need to book to stay the night or pay an entry fee to visit during the day.

The Welsh Historic Environment Service Cadw run and maintain Portmeirion and many of its buildings are Grade I or II listed for their architectural and historical importance.

In fact, you may well recognise Portmeirion as it has often been used as a filming destination thanks to its beauty! It most famously starred in the 1960s television series The Prisoner.

Things to do in Portmeirion

To be honest, people are often surprised at just how small Portmeirion is and that there’s not a huge deal of things to do. However, if you love architecture, taking photographs, and simply wandering around a beautiful spot, then it’s the perfect destination to enjoy a long afternoon or relaxing couple of days in the north of Wales!

It’s worth noting that while visiting Portmeirion, you will find it difficult to get a signal on your phone (which may offer a nice respite from the outer world!)

Explore the woodland & estuary

Found within the grounds of Portmeirion is a beautiful Japanese-style garden to explore which has several unique trees planted here, one particular to see is the ‘Dancing Tree’ which is a variety that comes from New Zealand. When visiting during the summer months you can experience the foliage in full bloom, making for a tranquil escape into nature.

A more unique feature of the village is the Dog Cemetery. During the Victorian period, pet cemeteries became particularly prevalent throughout the UK, the one found in the ground of Portmeirion has some graves that date back to the early 1900s.

It’s a quiet contemplative space where you can read about the dogs engraved on their headstone, some of which also have illustrations of the pet! There are around 60 dogs interred here.

If you head to the estuary, you can enjoy sweeping vistas of the sea, the small beach and the delightful lighthouse atop a perch overlooking the waterfront.

Admire the architecture

Of course, when visiting the come to life project of an architect, one of the best things you can do is admire all the marvellous architecture that has been so well thought out, designed and built to make up the space. The houses are colourful, built in Baroque style and each unique in character and charm.

Enjoy a coffee at one of the cafés

Soak up the ‘Mediterranean feel’ and enjoy a coffee at one of the cafés in Portmeirion. Though there are limited options, it’s a lovely way to relax and enjoy the space while sipping refreshments.

Swim in the outdoor pool (if a hotel guest)

If you’ve booked a room at the hotel, then you’ll be lucky enough to enjoy the outdoor pool. Portmeirion feels a world away from the rest of the UK thanks to its vibrant coloured houses and coastal location, so what better way to enjoy the ambience than taking a dip in the pool!

How to visit

As mentioned, Portmeirion is privately owned, which means that there are only two options when it comes to visiting the town. It’s worth noting that if you choose to stay overnight, the main advantage is that Portmeirion is much quieter and you get to explore the grounds lit up at night time!

As a day trip:

As a day trip visitor you have the option to visit from around 9:30 am – 5:30 pm and the cost (adult) is £20 per person. But, parking is free.

As an overnight visitor:

The other option is to stay in the village overnight. When it comes to choosing where to stay, there are a few different accommodation options. You can opt to stay in a self-catered cottage, there are 13 of these dotted throughout the village, this gives you the option to stay in one of the quirky houses, though it does mean you have to stay for 3-4 nights.

Alternatively, if you wish to stay for just one night then you have to opt to stay in either the hotel or castle – both of which are great options.

Best time to go?

The best time to visit is undoubtedly in July and August, not only because you are more likely to be guaranteed sunshine, but because the hydrangeas are in full bloom!

What many people don’t realise is that the colour of hydrangeas is based on the acidity of the soil, so the flower can bloom in either pink, purple or blue (which is the rarest).

Although the summer months are certainly the most colourful time to visit, it’s worth bearing in mind that this is also the busiest time of the year. If you prefer to visit during a less busy period, consider visiting in the late Spring or early September.

Is a visit to Portmeirion worth it?

As a destination that you have to pay an entry fee to visit, many people often ponder whether it’s actually worth the price or visiting at all. I have a few thoughts when it comes to this, the first being that, as a day trip, it is very expensive, even though parking is free there’s not a great deal of activities to do apart from simply wander around and enjoy the grounds.

Of course, as it was originally built as a hotel, all of the buildings here are guest houses which you can book to stay in (again, it’s quite a costly endeavour). However, you’ll be able to experience Portmeirion without the day trip tourists, as well as enjoy amenities of the hotel such as seeing the interior, dipping in the pool and seeing the village lit up at night.

We opted to book a package stay which included our bedroom, as well as breakfast and dinner, which is the best deal considering there is only one option when it comes to choosing where to eat in the village!

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