How to Spend the Perfect 3 Days in Pembrokeshire Itinerary

Last Updated on 6th August 2024 by Sophie Nadeau

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Pembrokeshire is a county in the southwest of Wales which boasts one of the most beautiful and dramatic coastlines in the world. Home to castle-clad cliffs, untouched islands with thousands of puffins, and natural treasures that continue to be shaped by time and sea, it’s the perfect destination to escape from it all. Here’s your guide on how to spend three perfect days in Pembrokeshire county!

What is Pembrokeshire known for?

Pembrokeshire is renowned for its dramatic coastline, with over 186 miles of castle-clad cliffs, sparsely populated landscape and a thriving wildlife scene. This stunning geographic area has been hailed by National Geographic magazine experts as “the second-best coastline in the World”.

Found along the stretch of coastline are several small islands, all of which are included within Pembrokeshire Coast’s National Park. One of the most famous is Skomer Island, which is one of the most protected parts of the UK and is home to a record population of seabirds (including over 40,000 puffins).

Getting around Pembrokeshire

For this suggested itinerary, you’ll need a car to go between destinations. Aside from the problem of not being able to do the whole itinerary due to public transport time constraints, you’ll also find that most viewpoints along the coastline are best reached by car and usually have a parking area or lay-by which you can easily stop in.

Check car rental comparison prices here.

Day 1suggested itinerary

The first day will be spent exploring Pembrokeshire’s liveliest town, getting a feel for the different landscapes and historical intrigue of the county. Then, you’ll want to spend the afternoon sailing out to one of Britain’s holy islands and soaking up its peaceful nature and quiet ambiance.

Tenby

Tenby is often referred to as “The Jewel in Pembrokeshire’s crown” and once you’re there, it’s easy to see why! A delightful seaside fishing town that’s Welsh name, Dinbych-y-pysgod, translates to ‘Little fort of the fish’. Tenby Harbour continues to be a hive of activity where you can spy fishermen docking in after a day’s catch.

During Victorian times, Tenby became a popular beach resort town and this can still be seen today through its colourful Victorian houses that line the golden shoreline of the town’s waterfront.

Sights of historical interest to explore in the town include the remains of Tenby Castle, which sits upon a rocky promontory and was founded by the Normans when they invaded in the 12th century and the nearby St Julian’s Chapel, which has an interior decorated with maritime items.

Found on the beach below the castle is a limestone outcrop known as St Catherine’s Island, which is named after the small chapel that once stood there. You can walk out at low tide and soak up sweeping views of Tenby and beyond from the small islet. For a small fee, you can enter the island and explore the historic Napoleonic fort.

Wandering through the town itself you can still see the remnants of well-preserved medieval fortifications which are considered to be some of the best kept in all of Britain.

Tenby is also home to the oldest independent museum in Wales (Tenby Museum and Art Gallery) and a magical, yet very chaotic, book shop which is filled with unique secondhand and collectors’ books, Cofion. Despite the endless stacks of books that seem they could topple at any moment, the owner knows where every copy and title can be found.

Boat trip to Caldey Island

While in Tenby, one of the best things to do is take a short 20-minute boat from Tenby Harbour and sail out to Caldey Island. Weather-dependent, these sailings happen every 30 minutes.

Caldey Island is an oasis of calm and one of Britain’s holy islands, it is owned and run by a community of Cistercian monks. From sandy beaches and secret coves, this haven of tranquillity boasts a fascinating history that can be traced back to the 5th century when the first Celtic monastery was built.

There are around 40 permanent residents (the monks of Caldey Abbey) who live a quiet and remote lifestyle among the beauty and nature of the island. They rely on tourism, as well as making fragrant perfumes and chocolate to sell to visitors.

It’s also a great spot to see wildlife! A rare spot for Britain, in 2016 red squirrels were introduced to the island to help control its rat population.

Day 2 suggested itinerary

Even though this seems like a short day (since it only includes one activity), you’ll likely be so tired by the time you head back to the mainland after a full day of walking, you may want to relax and rest before the final day of your road trip!

If it’s raining during your visit, you’ll likely want to head straight back to your accommodation to warm up with a shower afterwards as there’s little to no shelter on Skomer.

It actually rained during our Skomer trip and this meant that all of the seabirds came inland so we could see them up close, but also meant that we ended up very tired and cold by the end of excursion.

Skomer Island

To reach Skomer Island you must take a short 10-minute boat from a small bay known as Martin’s Haven Beach on the mainland. Between April to August, boats leave from here every 30 minutes. There is a National Trust car park which you can park at (you’ll have to pay £7 if you haven’t got a membership).

Then, you’ll see a small booking office where you can pick up your return tickets, however, it’s worth noting that there is no phone signal in this area!

Once you reach the island you’ll be given a brief safety instruction asking you not to stray from the path, touch the birds or leave litter etc. You should also know that there is one compost toilet on the island and there are no shops, so you might want to bring snacks. Just remember, everything you bring to the island, you must take back.

Then your adventures begin! We opted to spend almost 5 hours on the island, wandering around the pathways and spotting as much wildlife as possible. The natural beauty of the landscape and the thousands of birds flocking to the island is so mesmerising it’s really easy to lose track of time.

An introduction to Skomer Island

Skomer Island is an untouched corner of Britain and has become a sanctuary for seabirds. Sitting on the only stretch of water in Wales to have a marine conservation zone, the island is managed by Natural Resources Wales, under strict protection.

The island is located where warm waters from the Gulf Stream meet cold currents from the Arctic, making these unique conditions that allow for marine life to thrive. Some of Skomer Island’s wildlife to watch out for include: Manx Shearwaters, seals, thousands of Guillemots, Razorbills, Kittiwakes and plenty more.

However, the island is most famously known for its puffins! Smaller than you’d expect, these super cute and characterful birds are completely unfazed by human activity, so if you’re lucky you may even find them happily plodding up to you or stepping on your toes.

When it comes to the environment and climate these days, its often a rarity to welcome good news. However, as it stands Skomer Island (and particularly its puffin population) is thriving! In fact, in 2023 there was an estimated 42,000 birds, which was considerably up from the 38,000 counted the year before.

This is also fascinating when taking into consideration that puffins, similar to swans and penguins, are known for their long-lived, monogamous, ‘soulmate’ pairings and often only have one life partner, breeding one puffling per season.

After the puffling grows to full size (in about six weeks), it flies away from the island to spend its next three to four years floating on the Atlantic Ocean, before returning to Skomer Island once more.

Day 3 suggested itinerary

Spend your final day in Pembrokeshire delving into the historical and natural landscape that the county is so famed for.

St Davids

Start your day by discovering Britain’s smallest city both in size and population, St Davids. This mini ‘metropolis’ has been a place of curiosities and pilgrimage for centuries.

Not only this, St David is known for its rich literary history, particularly tied with the Welsh poet and writer R.S. Thomas – who served as the vicar of St David’s Cathedral in the 20th century.

Simply wandering around the quaint cobbled lanes and admiring the several cosy cafés that line the streets, it’s easy to imagine why this was such a place of inspiration, drawing people in.

A particular highlight that’s hard to miss in the city (mainly because it’s the one building that really stands out) is the historic St David’s Cathedral. There are records that a church has been on this site from the 6th century, however, the structure seen today dats between 1180 to 1220, with renovations over the years.

St Non’s Chapel

Located on the coast just by St David’s is the ruined chapel of St Non’s, which is traditionally held at the place where St Non gave birth to St David. Though all that remains are a few crumbling stone rubble walls, this historic landmark is a significant holy and cultural site, as well as boasting sweeping views overlooking Pembrokeshire’s famed coastline.

Overlooking St Non’s Bay, a visit to the chapel remains will lead you down a beautiful coastal path where you can enjoy the scenery and walk in the footsteps of all those who have pilgrimaged around this sacred location.

Pembroke Castle

Next, take yourself along to one of the county’s most treasured sights. The Welsh landscape is littered with castles and ruins, after all, Wales has over 600 castles and boasts more castles per square mile than any other country in Europe!

In the heart of the Pembrokeshire county is Pembroke Castle, a medieval fortification that was the original family seat of the Earldom of Pembroke.

The structure seen today was built in the 12th century and the castle itself has had quite the tumultuous history to explore. Pembroke Castle is renowned as being the birthplace of Henry VII (Britain’s only Welsh king!)

Today, visitors can explore the impressive architecture and venture into the towers and dungeons, uncovering the fascinating history and key role the castle played in the shaping of Wales throughout the centuries.

You can only purchase a ticket on the day of your visit to the castle, so there is no need to buy a ticket in advance. General admission for Adults (16+) is £10 per ticket.

The best view of the castle is actually from the other side of the Pembroke River. If you’re looking for a unique activity, then you could even consider renting a small paddle boat to head out down the river and soak up all of the historic views.

Green Bridge of Wales

This glorious and dramatic natural rock arch juts out into the sea and is reminiscent of Durdle Door in Dorset. An iconic viewpoint of Pembrokeshire and a cherished landmark of Wales, the archway is protected and considered a Site of Special Scientific Interest.

Formed of carboniferous limestone over millions of years, the Green Bridge takes its name from the vegetation that covers it.

Because the bridge is located within the boundaries of the Castlemartin military training area, there is restricted access to reach it. However, the best view is from afar, where you can see in full, how this geological wonder has been shaped over time by the sea.

Ye Olde Worlde Café

Stop for afternoon tea in Bosherton’s beloved tea room, Ye Olde Worlde Café! This charming tea room serves delicious homemade sweet treats as well as light lunches and a variety of teas and coffees. There’s also an outdoor garden area where you can sit out and enjoy when the sun is shining.

Bosherton Lily Ponds

An enchanting display of endless lily pads splayed across a set of lakes can be found within the parameters of the National Trust owned estate, Stackpole. A beautiful way to spend the afternoon is to walk along the Bosherton Lily Ponds trail and soak up the wildlife and beauty. The best time to visit is in July when the lilies are in full bloom.

St Govan’s Chapel

End your day by visiting a little chapel that hides secretly nestled between a cove and can only be spied upon once you’re standing directly above it. Equally impressive and awe-inspiring, this small ecclesiastical building has a history that traces back to the 6th century and is steeped in mythology.

St Govan’s chapel itself is believed to have been built in the 13th or 14th century, though the legend predates it almost 1,000 years. The story goes that a reputed hermit monk, St Govan, was guarding St Govan Head from pirates.

Praying for escape, a cleft in the cliff face opened miraculously for St Govan to hide in, and it’s said that the rocks closed so tightly to conceal him that his ribs left an impression in the stone! To repay for his safety, St Govan built a hermitage and remained there for the rest of his days.

Built into the cliff face this quaint little limestone structure comprises two chambers and is accessible from a steep descent of 52 steps.

Where to stay in Pembrokeshire

Pembrokeshire county is fairly small so you can easily base yourself in any location and be able to explore everything within the itinerary. Personally I would opt to stay in the vibrant town of Tenby as you’ll be close by to a lively scene and many main sights. Either Pembroke of St David’s are also great places to base yourself.

Here are a few suggestions of where to stay (based on web reviews):

The Normandie, Tenby – Set within a former coaching inn, The Normanside is a bar and restaurant with cosy rooms above and is situated just 500 metres from Tenby Harbour Beach. Amenities include free WiFi, a garden and a restaurant that serves a seasonal menu. Check prices and availability here.

The Dunes, Tenby – This 4-star accommodation is just a 10-minute walk from the town centre. A beautiful coastal retreat, you can enjoy amenities like the outdoor sun terrace, free parking, a restaurant on-site and free WiFi. Check prices and availability here.

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