A Local’s Guide to the Best Neighbourhoods in Edinburgh

Last Updated on 22nd August 2024 by Sophie Nadeau

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Edinburgh is a fairytale city rich with history and many landscapes. Scotland’s capital is divided into several neighbourhoods, all unique and each with their own pockets of community. The Old and New Towns of Edinburgh are both listed as UNESCO World Heritage sites for their abundance of medieval architecture and important landmarks. Here’s a local guide to the best neighbourhoods in Edinburgh!

As someone who has lived in Edinburgh for over 8 years and moved across the city starting from the South and ending in the North (for now at least), I’ve been lucky enough to experience what life is like in a multitude of the neighbourhoods mentioned below.

Edinburgh’s Best Neighbourhoods

Old Town

As its name may suggest, this is the oldest part of Scotland’s historic capital city. Old Town is an enchanting setting of charming historic buildings, with some structures dating back as far as the 12th century.

Found within the boundaries of this neighbourhood is Edinburgh’s famous castle, which is strategically built atop a rock and has been occupied by humans since the Iron Age and at one time a royal residence. The castle looms over Grassmarket, one of the oldest parts of the city, historically it was a bustling marketplace but also has a darker past as the site of public executions.

Today, Grassmarket remains a central gathering place. In the summer, it comes to life while locals and tourists alike sit on the outdoor seating of the many pubs and restaurants that surround the square, it’s also lined with colourful shops that curl up Victoria Street. And, there’s still a market every Saturday!

Running through the heart of the Old Town is Edinburgh’s most famous road, the Royal Mile, which connects Edinburgh Castle to Holyrood Palace and stretches the distance of approximately one Scots mile.

This street used to be the traditional processional route of monarchs, a long stretch of cobbles, and small narrow alleyways shoot off of the Mile, simply wandering down them and exploring what treasures lie in wait down the little lanes.

Today, The Royal Mile is the second busiest street in Edinburgh and strolling down you’ll find the city’s biggest cathedral, St. Giles, several museums, pubs and lots of souvenir shops (which tend to be super expensive as this is such a touristy street).

There are so many things to see in Edinburgh’s Old Town, you could easily spend a whole day or more in this neighbourhood. So, here are just a few personal highlights (from a local) that I highly recommend not missing out on:

• Camera Obscura – ‘A world of illusion’, this tourist attraction on the Royal Mile was founded in 1835 and is five stories of fascinating illusions and insight into the magic of the camera, as well as one of the best rooftop views of the city.
• Mr Wood’s Fossils – Situated on Grassmarket, this is Edinburgh’s renowned fossil shop, filled to the brim with geological specimens, ancient fossils and jewellery, all of which are affordably priced.
• Armstrong’s – This is one of the oldest vintage clothes shops in the whole of the UK, established in 1840, situated on Grassmarket is the flagship store, and there are now four more across the city.
• John Knox House – A historic house that dates back to 1470, and the former home of a Scottish theologian and reformer in the 16th century.
• The Fudge Kitchen – One of the coolest shops on the Royal Mile, the not only can you buy delicious handmade fudge of all flavours imaginable, but you can see them make it in front of you, and they often give you a free sample if you want to try some!
• Royal Mile Whisky – This specialist whisky merchant is one of the best places in the city to find some of the more unique and niche whiskies you’re unlikely to find elsewhere.
• National Library of Scotland – This treasure trove is one of the country’s National Collections and is home to more than 24 million printed items, including several rare sources. Free to enter (after a small security check) there are public reading rooms, and the building itself is beautiful!
• Edinburgh New College – Just off the Royal Mile and sitting atop a mound of grass, this stunning building is part of the University of Edinburgh and is one of the largest and most renowned centres for studies in Theology and Religious Studies. Walk in the courtyard and marvel at the architecture.
• The Vennel – This popular set of stairs leads just off of Grassmarket and boasts one of the best and most enchanting views of Edinburgh Castle.
• Armchair Books – Tucked away on a street near Grassmarket, this tiny bookshop is crammed full of rare and secondhand titles.
• Mary’s Milk Bar – A retro ice cream parlour situated along Grassmarket, serving the best gelato and sorbets in Edinburgh!
• Greyfriars Bobby – The well-known story of a loyal Skye Terrier who famously guarded the grave oh his owner for over fourteen years lives on through a bronze statue. It has become a tourist tradition to rub his nose for good luck, as a result leaving Bobby with a gold snout.
• Greyfriars Kirkyard – The graveyard was established as early as the 16th Century and here you can see much of the inspiration for the names of many characters in the series of books, Harry Potter.
• Harry Potter Museum – A small shop and exhibition space on Victoria Street which is home to all things Harry Potter related, you’ll often see queues outside the door!
• The Jolly Judge – Tucked away down one of the narrow alleyways of the Royal Mile, this cosy little pub is set within a historic square of tenement buildings and is one of the best spots to have a drink.
• The Writer’s Museum – Found next to the Jolly Judge, this tiny museum displays an insight into the life and works of some of Scotland’s most beloved writers.

New Town

This is the central part of Edinburgh and is home to the busiest street in the city, Princes Street. In contrast to its neighbour Old Town, the New Town is filled with Neoclassical Elegance and Georgian architecture, alongside all the modern structures built over the years.

New Town is likely the first stop for many when first visiting Edinburgh, home to the main transport links and the city’s main railway station, Edinburgh Waverly.

A designated UNESCO World Heritage Site, one of the most beautiful parts of New Town is the green expanse of open space Princes Street Gardens, which sits directly below the looming castle. Free to wander around, there are technically two gardens that stretch the entire length of Princes St. (and during the festive season, this is where Edinburgh’s Christmas Market takes place).

Princes Street itself is lined with major shops, as the main shopping high street of the city. While on the other side lies the impressive Victorian Gothic structure, the Scott Monument which is a structure dedicated to the beloved Scottish author Sir Walter Scott. And, the two main National Galleries of Scotland, which are free to walk around and showcase the very best of historic Scottish art.

Running parallel to Princes St but behind is, George Street, where all the boutique high-end fashion brands are, Queen Street, home to the National Portrait Gallery of Scotland and tucked away in the middle is Rose Street, traditionally a street of bakeries and brothels, today it’s home to a dense area of local pubs.

Found at the eastern end of Princes Street is a small rising volcanic hill, Calton Hill. Aside from boasting of the most iconic and beautiful views overlooking Edinburgh’s skyline and onto Arthur’s Seat, found atop are some of Edinburgh’s most important historical monuments.

The most famous (and unique) of the monuments on Calton Hill is the National Monument, which was based on the design of the Parthenon in Athens. Built as a tribute to the Scottish soldiers who died in the Napoleonic Wars, the structure was never completed and remains half-finished.

Found below Calton Hill is the St James Quarter shopping mall, which has had a recent revamp (despite the controversial architectural choice… many people claim it has a stool-like appearance) and is home to a concentrated pocket of shops, restaurants and a very fancy hotel right at the top.

New Town is a pretty huge neighbourhood of Edinburgh, filled with things to do. Here are a few suggested things that I may not have mentioned, but are definitely worth a visit:

• Fruitmarket Gallery – Found at one of the exits of Waverly Station, this contemporary exhibition space is typically free to explore and hosts a rotation of both local and international art exhibitions.
• Panda & Sons – One of the coolest cocktail bars in the city! Entering through a hidden bookshelf, here you can experience as well as taste some fascinating and delicious cocktail creations.
• Dundas Street – Rolling down from New Town into the Stockbridge neighbourhood, this street is worth a walk down simply because of all the privately owned art galleries. Perfect for window shopping, you can see an array of local artists’ works for sale here.
• Johnnie Walker Experience – If you’ve ever been or heard of the Guinness Experience in Dublin, this is essentially that but with a complete focus on all things Johnnie Walker whisky related!
• Waterstones café – For one of the best views of the castle while you sip on coffee, the Waterstones along Princes Street is the place as there’s a huge window and it sits almost directly opposite it.
• Café Royal – Regarded as a hidden gem of the city (although most people know about it), Café Royal is a champagne and oyster bar that houses a gorgeous and intimate restaurant with stained glass windows and in the bar area, the walls are lined with beautiful and ornate Victorian tiles.

Leith

Historically independent from Edinburgh, the neighbourhood of Leith only officially became part of the city in 1920. Home to huge Victorian tenements, green parks and a former port/working docks area, Leith has often been included on the list as one of the coolest neighbourhoods in the world!

Leith Walk is the main street of the neighbourhood, lined with shops, eateries and (in typical Scottish fashion) plenty of pubs. Running parallel to this is Easter Road, which is more residential but also has cosy cafés and just off it is the huge Easter Road Football Stadium.

Known as The Shore, the harbour area of Leith dates back to the 14th century and by the 18th century, it was Scotland’s main trading port and also frequently visited by monarchs. Now, the Royal Yacht Britannia sits at the dock and draws in thousands of visitors annually. A recent addition to the area is the Port of Leith Distillery, which boasts the world’s tallest vertical Distillery and has a bar where you can enjoy a drink and marvel at the spectacular views overlooking the River Forth.

Today, since the fairly new addition of the tram lines which run right from Edinburgh Airport to the Newhaven harbour area, Leith has changed a lot. The gentrification of this area has transformed it into a trendy and popular spot, where you won’t walk 200 yards without coming across yet another cosy café.

Stockbridge

Just a short walk down a steep slope, the small affluent neighbourhood of Stockbridge sits on either side of the Water of Leith and has a charming village feel to it, filled with shops of artisanal goods, bakeries, cosy cafés and hidden underground cocktail bars and pubs.

Characterised by its Georgian architecture, luscious green parks and beautiful pathways that follow along the river. The main street has plenty of places worth popping into, my favourite place is a bookshop named Rare Birds, which exclusively sells works by female authors.

Just a short walk away (though technically in Inverleith) is Edinburgh’s Botanic Gardens, which are free to wander around the outside areas. Inverleith Park sits outside of the gardens and is another huge green expanse, and found within is a huge pond brimming with life.

One of the most famously Instagrammed spots in Stockbridge (much to the annoyance of its residents) is the quaint little street, Circus Lane. Stockbridge is considered an affluent area of Edinburgh and it has some of the most gorgeous-looking homes.

Every Sunday from 10 AM – 4 PM a vibrant market takes place in the heart of Stockbridge, here you can browse the handmade crafts, buy local produce and gorge on delicious street food, you’ll often see people queueing around the corner of the market to get a bowl of freshly made paella!

Dean Village

The quaint area of Dean Village is far removed from the normal hustle and bustle of Edinburgh city life. Tucked away along the Water of Leith, the village traces back to the 12th century and was originally built for use as a milling settlement.

Only around a 20-minute walk from Stockbridge, this quaint little village is regarded as one of the most picturesque spots in the city and offers all the fairytale charm that the city is so renowned for.

Situated close by are the Scottish Modern Art Galleries, named Modern One and Modern Two, the iconic buildings house a huge permanent and rotating collection of contemporary Scottish art and sit on beautifully designed landscaped grounds.

Newhaven

One of the coolest things about Edinburgh is the fact that not only can you see the sea from several viewpoints within the city, but it also takes minutes to reach it. Newhaven is a small fishing harbour that, thanks to the new tram system in Edinburgh, can be reached from the city centre in around 20 minutes.

The main highlight of this neighbourhood is the Newhaven Fish Market, which can’t be missed as it’s a huge red building that sits next to the harbour. Inside houses a restaurant and fish & chip takeaway (which is delicious!) and a fishmonger, which sells the fresh catch of the day.

Following the path that runs along the waterfront, around a 10-minute walk from the harbour area, you’ll come across a street lined with colourful houses and to the right is the entrance to Wardie Bay. A small sanded beach which is a popular spot for wild swimmers.

Although there’s not loads to do in the area, it’s a pleasant place to visit and be by the sea and the perfect spot if you want to grab fish & chips and enjoy them by the sea!

Bruntsfield

This largely residential area is home to several cafés, eateries and vintage clothes shops. The Bruntsfield Links is a green expanse of space that feels like an extension of The Meadows and is a popular place for locals to sit out on or stroll around.

Found on the boundary between Bruntsfield and Morningside is the Holy Corner, a colloquial name given to a crossroads where at each point of the road sits a church.

Morningside

This former village is a district in the south of Edinburgh, known to be the wealthiest pocket of Edinburgh, it’s certainly got an air of affluence that can be felt when visiting.

One of the best things to do in the Morningside neighbourhood is to walk along its main street which is fittingly called, Morningside Road. Lined with cosy cafés, an abundance of charity shops (filled with treasures thanks to the wealthier residents’ donations) as well as more unique shops like Cameratiks, which is a second-hand camera shop specialising in vintage cameras and photographic film.

Also found within the neighbourhood is a family-run cinema, The Dominion, which is designed in Art Deco style and opened in 1938.

An area in the Morningside neighbourhood known as The Grange, a pocket of privately owned Victorian stone-built villas and mansions, which were originally built between 1830 and 1890 representing the idealisation of country living within an urban setting. Today, some of Scotland’s richest reside here, and it’s a cool area to walk around and marvel at the architecture from street view.

Blackford

This area of Edinburgh is found near the bottom of Morningside Road and is predominantly residential housing, but one of the biggest draws to this neighbourhood is to visit Blackford Hill.

Another green oasis of the city where you can stroll around the pond, walk through the forest and hike to the top of the hill, soaking up spectacular panoramic views of the city skyline, Arthurs Seat and the abundance of allotments that sit just below the hill.

Southside

This part of Edinburgh is a cultural hub of theatres, music venues, museums and galleries. Home to the National Museum of Scotland, which is free to enter and set within two buildings which are in stark contrast to one another. A secret spot at the top is the rooftop terrace where you can soak up stunning views overlooking the Old Town and in the distance Arthur’s Seat.

Some of the other cultural hubs of Southside include:

• Festival Theatre – A performing arts venue which is used for ballets, opera, musicals and various other touring groups. This is the spot to catch a show or two!
• Surgeons Hall Museum – One of the most unique museums of the city, this showcases one of the largest and most historic pathology collections in the UK. Not for the faint-hearted, if you are fascinated by the human anatomy then here, you can see it all in jars right before you!
• Dovecot – This is one of two working tapestry weaving studios that still exist in Britain. Set within a former Victorian public bathhouse, this magical space is where history is woven by a team of full-time weavers who are commissioned to create tapestries of famous artworks, sometimes taking several months to complete!
• Summerhall – Described as a ‘vibrant cultural village’, this grand complex houses over 100 businesses, from artists studios, a pub, a gin distillery, escape rooms and plenty more! Summerhall is a beloved venue of Edinburgh and there’s almost something happening every day of the year!

West End & Haymarket

The West End is tucked away behind the end of Princes Street, a small neighbourhood filled with Georgian architecture, stylish boutiques and hidden wine bars. Also found in the area is the magnificent, St Mary’s Episcopal Cathedral, consecrated in 1879, it is one of Scotland’s great buildings of worship.

Haymarket is home to the second railway station of the city and is an important transit hub of Edinburgh. Found within this area are largely pubs, restaurants and office spaces. Following along from here a short drive away is Edinburgh Zoo and Murrayfield Stadium, the main sports, entertainment and general events venue of the city.

Marchmont

Mainly a residential neighbourhood, Marchmont is extremely popular with students as it’s near to the main University of Edinburgh campus. A cosy little neighbourhood of cafés, boutique shops and some of the best restaurants in the city, Marchmont is a little hub of life in the heart of Edinburgh.

The best thing to do in this neighbourhood is to visit The Meadows (arguably this stretch of land goes across a few neighbourhoods) which is a central meeting spot in the city.

The Meadows come to life during the springtime, for the cherry tree-lined pathways and during the summer when what feels like the whole of the city sits out and enjoys BBQs, outdoor activities and relaxing under the rare Scottish warmth of the sunshine.

A personal favourite place situated along the Meadows/Bruntsfield area is Leftfield restaurant and their sister café Margot (which sits next door), this family-run business is one of the most romantic places to dine and the best places to get your morning coffee from!

Holyrood

Home to the Scottish Royal residence of King Charles, the famous volcanic hill Arthurs Seat, Holyrood Park, a whisky distillery and the Scottish Parliament, there’s a lot to be explored in the neighbourhood that sits at the bottom of the Royal Mile.

The area is dominated by Arthur’s Seat and the Crags which make for an enchanting setting to walk below. Holyrood Park which surrounds is a gorgeous green expanse, here you can also stroll around the huge pond where an abundance of wildlife thrives.

The grand 17th-century building of Holyrood Palace is partially open to the public, visitors are welcome to purchase a ticket and explore the grounds. One of the coolest things to see while visiting is the 15th-century ruined abbey that sits at the back of the palace.

One of the more unique buildings in Holyrood is the Scottish Parliament Building. Constructed with the idea that it compliments the landscape (though this has proved to be a little controversial) parts of the building are open for the public to wander around and explore.

Also found within this neighbourhood is Dynamic Earth, a science centre and planetarium that takes visitors through a scientific history ever since the Big Bang. Although catered more towards children, this is a fun way to spend a rainy afternoon in Edinburgh.

Portobello

Offering a completely different feel to the Gothic architecture, Portobello is a vibrant seaside suburb which is less than 3 kilometres from the city centre. The main promenade is lined with small stalls and restaurants selling food and a retro family-owned amusement arcade.

Portobello high street is filled with shops, restaurants, cafés and pubs. A cosy place to grab a drink after a coastal walk is the Portobello Tap, a pub which exclusively serves craft beers.

There are cycle paths leading from Leith to Portobello, making it easy to walk or take a bike and reach the beach from the city in minutes.

Cramond

Tucked away in the north-west of Edinburgh, the village of Cramond lies sleepily by the sea at the mouth of the River Almond. Offering stunning views over the Firth the Forth bridge, within this neighbourhood lies a Scottish gem worth exploring, Cramond Island.

Only reached by foot during low tide, the island is completely uninhabited, (though it is thought to have a history of human habitation in prehistoric times) the traces of the human hand remain in the form of concrete bunkers used to guard the river during WW2, ruins of a farmstead and remnants of it being used as a fishing outpost.

Where to stay in Edinburgh

You’re spoilt for choice when it comes to choosing where to stay in Edinburgh as each area offers a completely different experience! I recommend staying in the Old Town for a more central location, this gives you access to most of the main sights or Leith when it comes to looking for a more cost-friendly place to stay. Here are suggestions of where to stay (based on web reviews):

Novotel Edinburgh Centre – Situated a 5-minute walk from Grassmarket, I’ve stayed here and it’s the perfect location and walking distance from most of the city’s main sights. It’s mid-range priced, but for the convenience of location and links to transport it’s worth it. Check prices and availability here.

Brig O’Doon Guest House – Further out from the city centre, this is situated between Leith and Stockbridge, so will offer a much quieter stay. Set within a traditional tenement building, the guest house offers free Wifi and breakfast is available. Check prices and availability here.

It’s worth noting, that the Edinburgh Festival happens in August, so unless you are visiting specifically for that I would suggest avoiding staying during this month as the accommodation options in the city tend to double in price!

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