Setenil de las Bodegas Guide: The Town Living Under a Rock
Last Updated on 8th March 2025 by Sophie Nadeau
This post may contain affiliate links. Please check out my privacy policy and disclosure for more information.
Unlike any other place in Andalusia, this Spanish settlement is where “living under a rock” has become a complete reality for this charming little town. Whitewashed dwellings embedded into an overhanging cliff face sit just above a river that streams past in the luscious green valley below. Once voted as one of Spain’s prettiest villages, here’s you guide on the best things to do in Setenil de las Bodegas!
Contents
Where is Setenil de las Bodegas?
Setenil de las Bodegas is a pueblo (Spanish town) carved into the cliff face in the province of Cádiz, in the Andalusian region of southern Spain. The tiny settlement sits just above the Guadalporcún River.
What is Setenil de las Bodegas known for?
The whitewashed town is best known for its unique dwellings, which are built deep into the rock. Setenil de las Bodegas is physically embedded into a fascinating curve of rock that overhangs its quaint, narrow streets and homes.
Bodegas, which translates as ‘wineries’, refers to the town’s once flourishing wine industry. However, in 1860, the vines suffered from an insect infestation, so there are far fewer wineries here today.
How long do you need to visit?
Setenil de las Bodegas is a fairly small town that can easily be visited throughout the morning or afternoon. This makes it a perfect half-day trip to take when exploring the Andalusia region.
Best things to do
Soak up sunshine along Calle Cuevas del Sol
Calle Cuevas del Sol is a sunny street lined with bars and eateries sandwiched between huge rocky boulders, foliage can be seen dreamily draping down the rock face. This is the main walkway of the town, and so is the perfect place to stop for lunch!
Some of the town’s delicacies are Sopa Cortijeras, an Autumnal soup of asparagus, hard-boiled eggs, sausage, and spices. And Rabbit a la Serrana, a stew dish which is prepared with a slight personal touch by each restaurant/person that makes it.
There are two main walkways in the town, one being Cuevas del Sol (Caves of the Sun) and the other Cuevas de la Sombra (Caves of the Shadows).
Wander down Calle Cuevas de la Sombra
The shaded street of the town offers a welcome respite from the beating sun and is also a great place to marvel at the fascinating rock formations that cover the town.
Along Cuevas de la Sombra are several small boutique gift shops where you can pick up a piece of Setenil de las Bodegas and take it home to remember your trip by.
Visit the castle ruins
Found at the top of the town are the remains of a 13th-century Moorish castle, Nazari Castle. The former fortress once comprised over 40 towers, today you can visit the remnants of two towers: Torre del Homenaje or El Torreón.
From this strategic point of the town, you’ll also be greeted with breathtaking views overlooking the rugged Spanish landscape and beyond.
Hermitage of Our Lady of Carmen
This quaint little chapel is dedicated to the patron saint of the town, The Virgin of Carmen. As the patron saint of the sea and seafarers, she is said to protect all those out at sea, including fishermen. Festivities are held every year on the 16th of July to celebrate the saint.
Viewpoints in town
One of the best ways to admire the impressive rock-sheltered town and the gorgeous rugged green landscape that surrounds it is either from above or afar. Some of the best viewpoints to visit are:
- Mirador del Carmen – If you’re willing to climb the 93 steps, this viewpoint next to the hermitage is easily one of the best in town!
- Balcón de Setenil – This 24-hour observation balcony boasts views overlooking the entire town and is one of the best ways to take in just how embedded the houses are into the rockface.
- Calle San Sebastian – Easily reach via the main street in town.
- Mirador del Lizon – Soak up views of the whitewashed village from this point.
- Viewpoint of the Tower of Homage – Another view from high above is one of the remaining towers of the 14th-century former Moorish fortress at the top of town.
Kiss me at the corner spot
A corner in town that has become popular to visit, particularly amongst those looking for that Instagrammable moment, is the small sign that says “Besame en este rincon” (“Kiss me in this corner”).
Eat tapas on a terrace
Indulge in local tapas while lounging in the sunshine! While exploring Setenil de las Bodegas, one of the greatest joys is sitting within the cave village and marvelling at the landscape, all the while munching on some delicious Spanish tapas.
Spanish tapas varies by region, these small dishes can be served hot or cold and are typically small bitesize portions that accompany a beverage. Ranging from olives, breads, to garlic shrimp and small portions of potatoes (Patatas Bravas) or Spanish Omlette.
Where to eat in Setenil de las Bodegas:
- Bar Frasquito – Situated along Cuevas del Sol, this casual establishment has outdoor seating and tasty croquetas!
- D`TAPAS – Nestled along Cuevas de la Sombra, this eatery is particularly popular for its tacos.
- La Tasca – Set within a cave-dwelling, this café serves traditional and homemade tapas style dishes.
- Restaurante El Mirador – Boasting unique views overlooking the landscape, which are particularly beautiful at night, this restaurant is more of a romantic dinner spot.
Getting around
While driving is the best way to get to Setenil de las Bodegas, you should be aware that the streets here are very narrow and parking can be difficult once the town’s busy. Parking can be found at the south side of the village or on the dirt parking lot beside the Lady of Carmen Chapel (which is a 10-minute walk from the centre).
As a settlement which is built, quite literally, into the cliff face, be prepared for steep hills. Wear comfortable shoes, and make sure to drink plenty of water while exploring!
Where to stay
As Setenil de las Bodegas is fairly small, there aren’t that many choices of where to stay. That being said, those that are available make for beautiful accommodations and it’s super cool to stay in a cave dwelling! It’s worth noting, the town is very popular, so can get really crowded and make parking and access to it quite difficult at times. Here are a few suggestion of where to stay (based on web-reviews):
Casa Cueva El Arrabal – Found in the very heart of the town, this beautiful cave house offers clean, comfortable and refreshingly cool temperature rooms. Guests have commented on how convenient the location is and that the host is super friendly. Check prices and availability here.
Casa Rural Las Cuevas de Setenil – This hotel is situated in the heart of the town on the banks of the river. Offering a quieter spot from the hustle and bustle of Setinel, there’s a terrace area where guests can soak up stunning views of the town from below. Check prices and availability here.
Enjoyed reading our guide on the best things to do in Setenil de las Bodegas? Pin this article now, and read it again later:
