Ihwa Mural Village, 이화동벽화마을, Seoul’s Hilltop ‘Moon Village’

Last Updated on 18th July 2024 by Sophie Nadeau

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Known as one of Seoul’s daldongnae or ‘moon villages’, a name given due to its hilltop location making it that bit closer to the moon, Ihwa Mural Village is a vibrant pocket in the Jongno District of South Korea’s capital city. A place of colour, history, and amazing views, here’s how to visit Ihwa Mural Village, 이화동벽화마을.

A history of Ihwa Mural Village

Ihwa Mural Village is an is an area of Ihwa-dong, Seoul that sits just below Naksan Park (a large and commanding green space with sweeping vistas of downtown Seoul).

Ihwa-dong itself is one of Seoul’s oldest neighbourhoods and is historically home to poorer families and elderly people. Just a couple of decades ago, the area was considered by the government to be a decaying suburb, and as a result, the village was set to be demolished as it was considered ‘nothing special’.

However, (similar to a project that happened in Busan’s Gamechon Culture Village) in 2006, the government’s Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism formed a public art project to revitalise the area known as the “Art in the City” campaign.

This was a murals-based regeneration trend which has since become a popular idea to make an area more attractive and draw visitors into the space, through displays of art and painted murals.

Today, Ihwa is a place of creativity and inspiration, hailed as one of the most colourful pockets of Seoul. The neighbourhood has been transformed into an artistic tourism landmark with over 60 murals decorating the village.

The are also unique metal sculptures and intricate mosaics adorning the walls and staircases, all created by local artists. To this very day, new works are constantly popping up or covering the old, so no two trips to Ihwa are the same!

Etiquette for visiting the village

Before continuing, it’s important we recognise that a trip to Ihwa Village is a controversial excursion to write about. Despite the government’s opinion and the fact it was considered a more underdeveloped area, this neighbourhood has been a home and community to many people for many decades.

Of course, with tourism, money has been brought to the area, but it’s also meant that the village has become overrun with social media-hungry visitors searching for their next perfect shot. Furthermore, the sudden influx of tourism hasn’t necessarily been a completely positive impact for its residents.

In fact, in April 2016, two of the most famous murals in the village were destroyed by the residents with grey paint as a reaction to the noise, littering, and graffiti created by tourists.

So, you might be wondering whether you should visit at all? It’s entirely possible to visit Ihwa Village with a clear conscience so long as you do so with respect.

This means keeping noise levels to a minimum, always taking you rubbish or litter home with you, and not peering into windows or walk right up to doorways as people still live here and you should be respectful of their privacy.

I also suggest visiting during ‘work hours’ or the daytime, not just because the light will be optimal for viewing the art and stunning views, but also out of respect for the locals. And finally, don’t write or mark the walls!

Things to do in Ihwa Mural Village

Admire all of the murals!

Of course, the number one thing to do in the village is to admire all of the stunning murals. The charm of the village lies in the interesting artworks that hide in every possible corner of the area, with contributions made by local artists, students and younger children, it’s a wonderful array of creations to take in.

A particular favourite of mine (mainly for the love of cats) was the unique scene of two cats walking towards the window, one peering through. This metal sculpture complimented the architecture so well that it’s hard to imagine it not ever being there at all!

Visit the shops and galleries

Throughout the village, you’ll see several small gift shops and galleries, here you can buy local art, handmade crafts and a souvenir to remember your trip, or simply admire even more art in a gallery setting.

Soak up the views

One of the best things to do while visiting any of Seoul’s moon villages is to soak up the sweeping views of the city and beyond!

Eat at one of the local cafés

If you want to stop for refreshments there are a few gorgeous cafés and eateries worth checking out while you’re in the village. One stop with a particularly amazing view is the cosy Cafe Gaeppul, where you can enjoy the small pottery museum situated inside.

Visit Naksan Park

Situated even further above the hillside village is one of Seoul’s most popular green spaces, Naksan Park, 낙산공원, which can be reached if you follow the fortress walls to the top of the hill. This beautiful park is filled with exercise paths and a few observation decks where visitors can see panoramic views of the city, stretching far into the distance.

Wander down the Seoul City Wall Trail

From Ihwa, you can make your way back to street level by following the Naksan Fortress trail. Hanyangdoseong better known as, The Seoul City Wall, is a defensive wall which was built between 1395 and 1396 to defend the area from downtown.

The Fortress Wall envelopes Seoul in an almost 20-kilometre loop, so to walk its whole route would take the best part of a day, But from Ihwa back down to the city you can enjoy stunning vistas over the city’s skyline as you walk along a path steeped in history.

It’s also worth noting, that the path offers particularly beautiful views at nighttime when Seoul is lit up with a warm city glow!

How to get to Ihwa Mural Village

The village can easily be reached by a subway and short walk. Ride the Line 4 subway to Hyehwa Station and leave via Exit 2. Then, follow directions for Naksan Park and you’ll reach Ihwa Mural Village along the way.

Just to note: Google Maps is not optimised for South Korea, so you won’t be able to use it for walking around even if you want to! While you can use Maps for public transportation, there will be no walking directions. You’ll therefore want to download Naver Maps, which is the local maps app.

For more inspiration, check out our suggested 3 days in Seoul itinerary, which includes a visit to the mural village.

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